Unsolved play in front hub
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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As I still wasn't certain the play was from the bearing, so I assembled the bearing in the hub WITHOUT the spacer so the races were held fast (not to full torque) then felt for play, of which there wasn't any, thereby eliminating the stub axel etc (if you think otherwise please share)
Anyway, spacer replaced hub torqued the play has gone, I'm over the moon that the faffing has equated to a result, a cheap one at that.
Thankyou for the help and information!!
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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I don't want to re-read all of this thread from the starts so I apologize if you have already answered the following. When you replaced the bearings did you inspect the inside of your existing hub for damage in the bearing seats? I have heard of people whose cars have had the bearings "spin" and ruin the seats. I was also surprised when working on a friend's Mini to find a previous mechanic had "dimpled" the bearing seats using a poorly aimed drift. The dimpling prevented the bearings from fully seating.
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I don't want to re-read all of this thread from the starts so I apologize if you have already answered the following. When you replaced the bearings did you inspect the inside of your existing hub for damage in the bearing seats? I have heard of people whose cars have had the bearings "spin" and ruin the seats. I was also surprised when working on a friend's Mini to find a previous mechanic had "dimpled" the bearing seats using a poorly aimed drift. The dimpling prevented the bearings from fully seating.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I don't want to re-read all of this thread from the starts so I apologize if you have already answered the following. When you replaced the bearings did you inspect the inside of your existing hub for damage in the bearing seats? I have heard of people whose cars have had the bearings "spin" and ruin the seats. I was also surprised when working on a friend's Mini to find a previous mechanic had "dimpled" the bearing seats using a poorly aimed drift. The dimpling prevented the bearings from fully seating.
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Can you explain how you are measuring the preload? Are you using a dial guage? or?? Thanks
I use a dial indicator. DRMINI explained the method to me a while back.
I cable tie my magnetic indicator base around the base of the hub on the front side of it just below the steering arm mounting bolts, and position the indicator so it picks up off of the front of the brake rotor.
The trick is to start off with too wide of a spacer so you have some play to measure. Torque the hub nut to spec with a flat washer under the nut (not the cone washer), and then push and pull the brake rotor and read the needle sweep on the indicator. If for instance it is .015", then you need a spacer that is .016 - .017" thinner than what is in there to give you .001 - .002" preload.
With the proper spacer in the hub and the nut torqued to spec, you will not feel any play, or read any play on the indicator. The spacer prevents the bearings from pushing too hard into the races and prematurely failing.
"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 6
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Can you explain how you are measuring the preload? Are you using a dial guage? or?? Thanks
I use a dial indicator. DRMINI explained the method to me a while back.
I cable tie my magnetic indicator base around the base of the hub on the front side of it just below the steering arm mounting bolts, and position the indicator so it picks up off of the front of the brake rotor.
The trick is to start off with too wide of a spacer so you have some play to measure. Torque the hub nut to spec with a flat washer under the nut (not the cone washer), and then push and pull the brake rotor and read the needle sweep on the indicator. If for instance it is .015", then you need a spacer that is .016 - .017" thinner than what is in there to give you .001 - .002" preload.
With the proper spacer in the hub and the nut torqued to spec, you will not feel any play, or read any play on the indicator. The spacer prevents the bearings from pushing too hard into the races and prematurely failing.
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3 months later and about 2000 miles and my right hub again had play this weekend, and I got 1/2 turn of the axle nut to tighten it back up.
This time I am going to throw parts at it. The bearings I used previously to replace the bad ones were matched to races and were lightly used and turned smoothly, but they were lightly used.
The races had not ever spun in the hubs, and to ensure they would not, I made a few punch dimples in the hubs and applied Loctite bearing retainer compound to the hub and race before pressing in the races. Everything was dry assembled to ensure .002 preload.
So even though I cannot see what could possibly change by replacing the swivel hub with new, I am going to replace that along with the bearings. Drive flanges have barely 5000 miles on them.
The left side was set up the same way, and it is still tight.
This is a frustrating problem that has been going on for years.
"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"
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Can you explain how you are measuring the preload? Are you using a dial guage? or?? Thanks
I use a dial indicator. DRMINI explained the method to me a while back.
I cable tie my magnetic indicator base around the base of the hub on the front side of it just below the steering arm mounting bolts, and position the indicator so it picks up off of the front of the brake rotor.
The trick is to start off with too wide of a spacer so you have some play to measure. Torque the hub nut to spec with a flat washer under the nut (not the cone washer), and then push and pull the brake rotor and read the needle sweep on the indicator. If for instance it is .015", then you need a spacer that is .016 - .017" thinner than what is in there to give you .001 - .002" preload.
With the proper spacer in the hub and the nut torqued to spec, you will not feel any play, or read any play on the indicator. The spacer prevents the bearings from pushing too hard into the races and prematurely failing.
"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"
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