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 Posted: Apr 17, 2017 01:17PM
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ex wife in the boot?? duck tapped with bell. in her hand??

 Posted: Apr 17, 2017 01:07PM
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For what it's worth, I was having the same problem. I finally tracked down the source of the noise. It was a rattling dust shield that goes around the front left brake disc. Hope that helps.

 Posted: Mar 25, 2017 06:18PM
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I just started having that same issue. Sounds like a vibrating metal sound around 1200 rpm. Seems to come from the left side of the car. I thought it might be an exhaust clamp, but can't track it down. I'll post a reply if I figure it out. Btw, I have an 89 Rover Mini 1000.

 Posted: Mar 23, 2017 05:07AM
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Hi
If you have a stock header it might be the cup style connection to the manifold that is loose under the two piece clamp,

try to hold the tube and move it up and down

regards

 Posted: Jun 28, 2012 06:43AM
 Edited:  Jun 28, 2012 06:49AM
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The A+ engines had timing chain tensioners whereas the early pre 80's as Dr Mini said don't. The oil would not make a difference as long as it was 20/50. The single row chain will rattle for a long time and can be replaced with a duplex twin chain set up (with minor mods) or i have seen the later A+ ones installed (a bit more work), and of course you can just replace what you probably have with the same thing a single row chain. You did the right thing by raising the idle slightly as that in effect takes a little "slap" out of the chain and then it makes less noise.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 27, 2012 03:26PM
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So I've been investigating the rattle sound for the past couple of days. It sounds like its coming from the fan area to the timing chain area. It sounds louder when im looking behind the engine in the areas I've described. I've done a recent oil change and the oil I used was Penzoil 25/50w racing oil with very high zinc. I don't know if the oil is causing the chain to make the noise if its coming from that. I wouldn't think that using 25/50w compared to 20/50 would make a difference. I also did a carb adjustment and I noticed that since the idle is little higher that the rattle sound isn't as bad, but I don't have a tach in the mini to know how high the elms are but im no idiot and I can tell its not high at all. Probably around 750-850 rpms. If it is a timing chain problem is the a tension adjustment that can be done? In the bathes manual it states that later minis had a adjustment bolt. Any other input would be helpful. If anyone wants I can take a video and send it to your email if that helps

 Posted: Jun 24, 2012 06:58AM
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If its the single row timing chain there's no need to panic, they rattle away virtually forever.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Jun 24, 2012 04:35AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77mini
The minis rattle only happens at idle. When I push in the clutch its still there. Its never had a overheating issue. The temp gauge always stays at "N" during long drives.. ill have to look around and see where's its at.. where is the idle inlet control cable at?

It's the air inlet control valve, and it's attached to the airbox inlet, then to a hose that draws warm air from around the header. Number 19 in the diagram at the right. Your 77 may still have it attached. If you do and your rattle sounds like a tin can vibration rattle, that might be it. Sounds as though everyone else suspects timing chain, but the uber simple stuff is good to rule out before you start panicking.

 

Pete

 

Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. 

 Posted: Jun 24, 2012 02:50AM
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Timing chain is my bet. Most are single row, wear a lot eventually and then rattle on the cover. Later ones 1980> had a proper tensioner, early ones didn't.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2012 01:53AM
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The minis rattle only happens at idle. When I push in the clutch its still there. Its never had a overheating issue. The temp gauge always stays at "N" during long drives.. ill have to look around and see where's its at.. where is the idle inlet control cable at?

 Posted: Jun 23, 2012 08:12PM
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Is the rattle after driving really hard? Having any overheating issues?

"It's a good day when you wake up with a Woody!"
 Posted: Jun 23, 2012 05:47PM
kd
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CA

rattle in neutrel?

Push in the clutch . does the rattle go away?

 

If yes then it might be the idler gears or the timing chain.

 

Change to Mobil One synthethic and see how many rattles go away.

Deb

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Jun 23, 2012 05:41PM
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Weird rattle by the carb could be the air inlet contol valve. That tends to rattle at idle, but not at higher revs. I was advised to ditch mine. Hasn't hurt anything to have done so.

 

Pete

 

Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. 

 Posted: Jun 23, 2012 02:41PM
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US

Noise's are some of the hardest things to track down. Anything that can move or vibrate will cause noise. Hood a bit loose, turn signal relay loose in it's mount, wiper motor or linkages, air filter housing.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Jun 23, 2012 02:24PM
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Today I was out take the mini for a joy ride and when I came to a stop I was hearing a weird rattle sound. It sounds like its coming from behind the radiator to the carb area.. its only when im at idle. I never hear it when im driving.. I checked around back there and I don't see anything loose or rubbing against something. Fan is free and clear of everything and not loose. It almost sounds like its coming from the canister that's in the back of the head by the exhaust manifold. Has anyone had this before.. any input would be helpful