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 Posted: Apr 26, 2015 08:29AM
 Edited:  Apr 26, 2015 08:32AM
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I got the shift rod out. I also think I should replace the backup switch sender, wires and two rubber mounts (22G 2205)... along with a blast of good cleaning session.

Any other suggestions while I have it out ?

 photo Mini GearShift Assembly 002.jpg> <P>










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 Posted: Apr 25, 2015 05:52PM
 Edited:  Apr 26, 2015 06:46AM
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Thank-you Mur, I appreciate your time/posting.

I will order the new bushing (part 42H 1214) tomorrow.

What needs to be lifted ?... "The reverse lockout requires lifting"... do I need to lift the motor ? Apologies, I'm confused on that one... but, I am good at following directions. EDIT 4/26/15... I used a much smaller bolt, wrapped some tape around it to temporarily hold the shift rod in place. I used a small alan head wrench and was able to pull the trans-shift-rod back a bit (towards the back) and then turn it, I pushed the coupling back into position on the transmission tail shaft and now the holes line up and I can put the roll-pin thru, one I have the new bushing... just used a temporary work around to help me understand how the roll pin holes are lined up / fitted.

I have never removed the shifter assembly.

The shifter assembly is a large greasy mess... really bad... so, probably this is the better time to remove it, clean it and renew the bushing you mentioned. I'm not sure how to remove the shift assembly. I'll look in the book, there are probably some bolts up top under the shift boot.

I might need to jack the car up a little higher and raise the jack stands... .. I don't fit under the car as well as I used to.

Let me know on the lifting question. Thank-you, Tom

 Posted: Apr 25, 2015 01:51PM
mur
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You need that new bushing. You need to loosen or maybe even completely remove the header to get the bolt in place. The reverse lockout requires lifting to move the selector to the right of where third and fourth are accessed, and this is where it is easiest to insert and remove the roll pin.

maybe now is the time to completely remove the shifter assembly and sort it out. There is a bushing at the front of the housing, and it wears along with the rod that passes through it. You can find a bushing at a hardware store, and you can remove the rod and swap it end for end so that the worn portion is now forward towards the engine. That is enough to transform the shift assembly.  You do need to take great care in drifting out the roll pin that holds the main shift rod to the cast portion that the shift lever drops into, but otherwise this is a simple job. 

 Posted: Apr 25, 2015 12:19PM
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OK, I got the small pin in the mail from MiniMaina.

I have 2 questions/challenges.

Looking at the earlier picture.

1) There is a 5/16 bolt, about 2 inches long that goes in above the pin. I am unable to have enough clearance to put this bolt in. The exhaust header is in the way. Is there a technique/trick to getting this bolt in or... do I need to loosen the header off the exhaust studs ? Edit.. I think I found the answer..there is a rubber bushing around a small shaft the bolt slides thru..the shaft can be slide in/out..so, by sliding to one side, allows room to get the bolt into place. I noticed the rubber is badly deteriorated (damaged)...it is probably best to order a new one.

2) When I slide the shift mechanism over the shaft at the back of the transmission, I am unable to get the holes to line up to put the pin thru... I am guessing this may be because of the above 5/16 bolt is not in place, therefor I can not change the position of the shifter in the cab.

Please advise, thank-you.

 photo Bushing-Lower-Housing.jpg> <P>










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 Posted: Apr 16, 2015 02:17PM
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Thanks for the answers. I will check the local hardware for a 7/32 pin, if no luck I'll order one from the MM website.

 Posted: Apr 16, 2015 05:15AM
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CA

7/32" I believe that roll pin is.

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 15, 2015 06:01PM
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I found one at Ace Hardware. It was a little long and they are hard steel to cut, but you can cut them.

Jerry

 Posted: Apr 15, 2015 03:34PM
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I am looking for a roll pin that fastens the shift rod to the end-shaft at the transmission.

Online, I found part number: RPS1416......Roll pin, extension rod and coupling at catalog: //www.minimania.com/catPage/3-23/3/23/1/Gear-Lever-and-Selector-Mechanism

Is this a general size roll pin that I can pick up at a good hardware store, or is this an item I need to order ?

 photo Shift Rod.jpg

 Posted: Mar 19, 2015 06:13PM
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I-69 Big Beaver Road Climax Hell Gotta love the Michigan DOT. Many Michiganders have a sentence on deck with all the above roads/cities. Where's Willie?

Got Tom's email and sent one back. Hope to meet up soon. I just need to get my cluster back together!

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Mar 19, 2015 04:42PM
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Mark, that would be Great. I could very much use some help. I sent you an email.

I'm actually in Corunna/Owosso area, between Flint and Lansing, just off of I-69.

 Posted: Mar 18, 2015 05:29AM
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US

His profile shows him in Flint, Mark. Go help him get ready for snow and salt-free roads!...June will be here before you know it! Cool (Love Michigan - a favorite vacation spot of ours!)

SE7EN

 Posted: Mar 17, 2015 07:04PM
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Whoa wait a minute, Mid Michigan? Where abouts? (plural to speak the native Michigan tongue). The mini engine in and out is a very quick procedure if nothing else is hooked up. I say pull it, do what you need to, drop it back in and have that sucker on the road in a week (couple hours a night for a few days that is).

Let me know where you are. I'd love to help you get your car going.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Mar 17, 2015 06:29PM
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I was able to get the brake line tightened up via the small access hole, not a lot of room there. Yes, that is correct, I have not set the tappets. The engine is lightly bolted to the engine mounts... that is, it is not yet tightened down. I have the fan and radiator installed already. Tomorrow I will see if I have enough room to install the drive shafts or if I need to pop the ball joints. I have an engine hoist. Thank-you for the tips/advice, it is very helpful.

I will post tomorrow evening.

Tom mid-Michigan

 Posted: Mar 17, 2015 02:33PM
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You also mentioned "valve timing" ... do you mean just setting the tappets or have you not yet timed the cam...

Another engine out job...

Also, if the suspension is fully assembled, its easier to slip the inner pot joints in place with the engine suspended in the engine bay.  Once the engine is sitting on its mounts you will need to pop the ball joints to install the drive shafts...

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Mar 17, 2015 09:11AM
 Edited:  Mar 17, 2015 09:24AM
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The inner fender should have a small access hole, most if they have been worked on before are enlarged or bent out somewhat. Replacing the front left to right brake line is a whole lot easier with the engine out and as you have not hooked anything up engine wise if it were my car i would just pull the engine and along with the steel line replace both front brake flex hoses while you are at it.

Not saying it cannot be done with the engine in place but it is a whole lot easier with the engine out.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Mar 17, 2015 07:02AM
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I know this sounds like a mess, but I need to start somewhere. About 3 years ago, life got in the way of our 1977 Mini project. About 3 years ago, we took the motor out, had it rebuilt and we put it back in the engine bay and never hooked it back up. The engine is a 1275A+ bored .40 over, new head/valves & guides, HIF6/HIF44 carb, SW5 cam, electronic ignition. While the motor was out, I replaced the front suspension rubber cones, front discs and calipers. I need a Mini-Coach(s) to help me get the Mini back on the road. The axles are not hooked up to the transmission. The valve timing/adjustment has not yet been done. I recall working on the brake line that is somewhat located under the radiator. I don't see any why to reach the brake line with a wrench via the wheel well, does this require taking the radiator out ?

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