Engine Re-Install Questions
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Apr 26, 2015 08:29AM | gzj6wg | Edited: Apr 26, 2015 08:32AM |
Apr 25, 2015 05:52PM | gzj6wg | Edited: Apr 26, 2015 06:46AM |
Apr 25, 2015 01:51PM | mur | |
Apr 25, 2015 12:19PM | gzj6wg | |
Apr 16, 2015 02:17PM | gzj6wg | |
Apr 16, 2015 05:15AM | Spitz | |
Apr 15, 2015 06:01PM | jchealey | |
Apr 15, 2015 03:34PM | gzj6wg | |
Mar 19, 2015 06:13PM | helpmymini | |
Mar 19, 2015 04:42PM | gzj6wg | |
Mar 18, 2015 05:29AM | Se7en | |
Mar 17, 2015 07:04PM | helpmymini | |
Mar 17, 2015 06:29PM | gzj6wg | |
Mar 17, 2015 02:33PM | 1963SV2 | |
Mar 17, 2015 09:11AM | malsal | Edited: Mar 17, 2015 09:24AM |
Mar 17, 2015 07:02AM | gzj6wg |
Found 36 Messages
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Any other suggestions while I have it out ?
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I will order the new bushing (part 42H 1214) tomorrow.
What needs to be lifted ?... "The reverse lockout requires lifting"... do I need to lift the motor ? Apologies, I'm confused on that one... but, I am good at following directions. EDIT 4/26/15... I used a much smaller bolt, wrapped some tape around it to temporarily hold the shift rod in place. I used a small alan head wrench and was able to pull the trans-shift-rod back a bit (towards the back) and then turn it, I pushed the coupling back into position on the transmission tail shaft and now the holes line up and I can put the roll-pin thru, one I have the new bushing... just used a temporary work around to help me understand how the roll pin holes are lined up / fitted.
I have never removed the shifter assembly.
The shifter assembly is a large greasy mess... really bad... so, probably this is the better time to remove it, clean it and renew the bushing you mentioned. I'm not sure how to remove the shift assembly. I'll look in the book, there are probably some bolts up top under the shift boot.
I might need to jack the car up a little higher and raise the jack stands... .. I don't fit under the car as well as I used to.
Let me know on the lifting question. Thank-you, Tom
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You need that new bushing. You need to loosen or maybe even completely remove the header to get the bolt in place. The reverse lockout requires lifting to move the selector to the right of where third and fourth are accessed, and this is where it is easiest to insert and remove the roll pin.
maybe now is the time to completely remove the shifter assembly and sort it out. There is a bushing at the front of the housing, and it wears along with the rod that passes through it. You can find a bushing at a hardware store, and you can remove the rod and swap it end for end so that the worn portion is now forward towards the engine. That is enough to transform the shift assembly. You do need to take great care in drifting out the roll pin that holds the main shift rod to the cast portion that the shift lever drops into, but otherwise this is a simple job.
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I have 2 questions/challenges.
Looking at the earlier picture.
1) There is a 5/16 bolt, about 2 inches long that goes in above the pin. I am unable to have enough clearance to put this bolt in. The exhaust header is in the way. Is there a technique/trick to getting this bolt in or... do I need to loosen the header off the exhaust studs ? Edit.. I think I found the answer..there is a rubber bushing around a small shaft the bolt slides thru..the shaft can be slide in/out..so, by sliding to one side, allows room to get the bolt into place. I noticed the rubber is badly deteriorated (damaged)...it is probably best to order a new one.
2) When I slide the shift mechanism over the shaft at the back of the transmission, I am unable to get the holes to line up to put the pin thru... I am guessing this may be because of the above 5/16 bolt is not in place, therefor I can not change the position of the shifter in the cab.
Please advise, thank-you.
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7/32" I believe that roll pin is.
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Jerry
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Online, I found part number: RPS1416......Roll pin, extension rod and coupling at catalog: //www.minimania.com/catPage/3-23/3/23/1/Gear-Lever-and-Selector-Mechanism
Is this a general size roll pin that I can pick up at a good hardware store, or is this an item I need to order ?
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Got Tom's email and sent one back. Hope to meet up soon. I just need to get my cluster back together!
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I'm actually in Corunna/Owosso area, between Flint and Lansing, just off of I-69.
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His profile shows him in Flint, Mark. Go help him get ready for snow and salt-free roads!...June will be here before you know it! (Love Michigan - a favorite vacation spot of ours!)
SE7EN
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Let me know where you are. I'd love to help you get your car going.
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I will post tomorrow evening.
Tom mid-Michigan
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You also mentioned "valve timing" ... do you mean just setting the tappets or have you not yet timed the cam...
Another engine out job...
Also, if the suspension is fully assembled, its easier to slip the inner pot joints in place with the engine suspended in the engine bay. Once the engine is sitting on its mounts you will need to pop the ball joints to install the drive shafts...
Cheers, Ian
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The inner fender should have a small access hole, most if they have been worked on before are enlarged or bent out somewhat. Replacing the front left to right brake line is a whole lot easier with the engine out and as you have not hooked anything up engine wise if it were my car i would just pull the engine and along with the steel line replace both front brake flex hoses while you are at it.
Not saying it cannot be done with the engine in place but it is a whole lot easier with the engine out.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Found 36 Messages