IDENTIFING A COOPER S – MARK II

There is obviously more to a Cooper S than just the badges and below is a list of items that identify a Cooper S over the standard Mini 1100 or Mini K. This list is to help point out the obvious things that can be checked during an inspection of a potential purchase. We have covered the things that are visible without having to remove anything from the car

Chassis number

• YG2S4 followed by an individual body number i.e. 1234 (YG2S4 1234) This number must also be stamped into the radiator shroud  Some cars also have the build number (501 less than the body number) stamped into the gutter on the passenger side of the scuttle panel

Engine number

• 9FXEY followed by and individual engine number i.e. 123456 (9FXEY 123456)

Mechanical items

• Tappet chest side covers on the rear of the engine
• 1 11/16 Welch (core) plugs in block
• 22G1128 gearbox casing (same as Mini 1100)
• Hardy Spicer universal joints

• Engine oil cooler
• Cylinder head has 10 nuts and 1 bolt (adjacent to thermostat housing)

Body Items

• Additional straps for fuel vapor pipes (on panel in front of fuel tanks viewed from boot) there should be 2 vertically for each tank and 3 across the top. These must be spot welded in place (not pop riveted). Under the R/H tank is a support bracket that also MUST be spot-welded.
• 2 holes in each side of the boot floor – L/H for the fuel vapour pipe and fuel supply hose. R/H for the battery cable and fuel vapour pipe.
• Flare support panels MUST be spot welded to car
• Recessed front apron to fit the oil cooler and the support brace is diagonal rather than vertical (this brace must be spot welded on)

Brakes

• 7 ½ front disc brakes
• Brake power booster (VH44)
• Wide rear brake drums
• Thick brake pedal in pedal box

Fuel System

• Twin 1 ¼ SU Carburettors (limited cars including Police cars were fitted with twin 1 1/2 SU’s)
• Oval Air filter asy containing 2 round air filters
• Twin fuel tanks (one on each side of the car)
• Electric fuel pump (located on L/H side of rear sub frame)
• Fuel breather valve located under rear seat on passenger side of vehicle

Suspension

• Hydrolastic suspension front and rear

Interior

• 120 MPH Speedo
• Temperate gauge
• Oil pressure gauge
• Plastic shroud around gauges with 2 green indicator-warning lamps (some police cars also had a handbrake warning lamp and reverse lamps)
• Seatbelt in the front only
• Vinyl covered dash rails
• Chrome solid top ashtray in front upper dash rail
• Plastic heater asy
• Heater cable on left
• Choke cable on right
• Extended ignition switch

Exterior

• Overriders and nerf bars on front and rear bumper bars
• Oval Cooper S badge on bonnet
• Morris Cooper S on rear boot lid above number plate
• Wheel arch extensions (flares)
• Steel 4.5 x 10″ wheels with 9 ventilation holes around the inner hub

This is an “initial inspection” checklist we use and have found to be quite thorough. Please remember that it is possible to find a replica or re-shelled Cooper S that is almost identical to a genuine item. We take no responsibility for any errors or omissions than may lead to the purchase of a non-original car. This list cannot replace our many years of experience inspecting a large number of genuine and non-genuine cars. Our only suggestion is to seek out an expert in your area and discuss the car with them. Probably the final word must go to one of our elderly customers who worked on the production line at BMC. He used to say, “of the 7500 odd Cooper S’s they built in Australia about 25,000 of them are still left because everyone thinks he’s got one”. Please bear this in mind when you are out there looking at one!!!! To all those people who have rang or emailed us thanks for your input and if you have any more suggestions please let us know.