All good info Alex!

I've been running a +.060" 1098 with a 295 and MG cam in Tubbs for years.  Flying machine.

The new engine is a +.100" with a Piper 255 and a custom ground 295 head.  Should fly even faster.

I helped build a motor recently using Graham Russell's 68mm [edit- made for 1098's stroke] pistons. It was going to be a 1220, but the 1098 crank was cracked. So, we decked the block severely and ran with a balanced 998 crank.
With a modded 202 head, 998 Cooper intake valves and 27mm exhausts, it is one sweet 1108cc motor. And the crank will stand revs more reliably than a 1098 one.
Cam is Graham's RE266SS, it had twin HS2s but now runs a 40DHLA Dellorto (32mm chokes) on a Redline 3005 manifold.
This motor runs so smooth, and goes hard to 7000 and beyond. We are using a 3.647:1 diff.

[edit] Using a 12G940 gasket to clear the offset 68mm bores, a few water holes had to be plugged and redrilled.

All good news Matthew!

Rick

I have a 1098 with a 295 head, SW5 cam, +40 bore

Runs/pulls great.  I've had twin HS2 on it and presently HIF4....both work very well.  Running a 3.1 FD in it right now, but used to have a 3.44 and autocrossed it....did very well.

It'll easily keep up with/pass a Sprite type stock 1275

I have built several 998 s the last couple of years. I don't know if you have run into a late A+ 998. They have press fit small bore rods. While I'm still able to find rod bushes and have access to machines to fit and size. I'm thinking I may want to autocross a 998. The press fit rods should have less issues with snap rings popping out. I used up my stash and have bought a set out of UK. All small bore rods are heavy so I plan to machine mine as discussed. I have several sets of 998/1100 bushed rods if someone is looking . Steve (CTR)

In my case, I had a modestly warmed up standard bore 998 with standard valved & skimmed Cooper head and MG Metro cam, 1 1/2" Hitachi/K&N filter, medium bore LCB to twin box.  It was a good little unit.  Went to Mini Meets in Quebec, Oregon, California before being pulled apart.

Jumped immediately to a 1380 in the rebuilt/modified sedan called Pooh, in part because I was going to pull the trailer Hunny Pot.  Lots of power from that unit.

Then I had rides in an RE worked 998 and in GR's personal late Aussie 1275 sedan.  No question RE knows how to get quiet, reliable power from the A Series for the street.

So, even though I have another 1275 block and a Metro turbo block & bits (after the 1293 build for the Woody), I found myself pondering about the Aussie Van.  The Van needed more oomph.

Then the 12G295 head popped up.  Bingo.

I think with the 1275 cores and engines becoming more expensive and harder to find small bores are a good option and a smoother revving engine imo.

Seems several people are taking another look at 998/1098 power units. I delivered a .060 998 saturday and have a std/std/std 998 on the engine test stand now. The main reason this one is std. is it was running on three cyls. giving 50 mpg and able to hold 65/70 mph on the highway. I also have a small collection of 295 cyl. heads, 998 cores and a 1100 core. Plan is to stick with a big bore 998. 

Cleaning up around the tranny bench I was able to clean inspect and box 4 sets of A+ gears and bits, two A SC/CR gear sets one complete for remote and the other for a rod change. Two sets of gears and parts for A 1128 remotes. One set of rolling start Swift shift dog gears new, one set of JKD standing start multi spline involute dog gears new as well. I have not tried to go though the three synchro stuff yet.

I also have two 5626 complete trannys still under 1275 cores, three 1832s, and three 1128s yet to be stripped down. Not sure what I may still have in the way of magic wand trannys in the garage attic at home. I have been fitting A+ gear sets to 1128 cases and hand fitting magic wand diff. housings instead of the AA remote housing. I have not yet used a Cooper remote case for this swap. It is fairly simple to open the case for the three step lay shaft then it's just finding the correct reverse gear. 

Currently out of 2.95 and 2.76 CWPs but have 3.1/3.2/3.44 by the bucket/3.65/3.76/3.9/4.10 as well as posi sets in 3.9 and 4.20 semi SC and true SC. Add in Salisbury and trannex posi, cross pin diffs, SC drops, windage trays and COPs I can build just about anything you can think of. Let me know if I can be of any help in your tranny build. Steve (CTR)

PS: can anyone supply me a good used or NOS 16 tooth driven speedo drive gear? (the plastic one)

Was looking through the accumulated bits earlier today and with 3 A+ tranny cases - 1 Metro Turbo - on the shelf, I hope I can put an A+ unit under the warmed up 1098...but can I keep the OZ 'Puddin Stirrer' shifter (have no idea but sure beats the Rod change - no leaks)???  Will also put a NEW, never built A+ unit under the 1293 for the '61 Woody (it's a keeper).

There is enough extra stuff on the parts shelf that more might go up For Sale.  Like who would like to have an MG Metro Turbo block with under piston oil injectors, prepared NEW crank, NEW forged pistons, Longman head, used wiring harness, 2 turbos (1 built but not by us, 1 unbuilt)?

Questions questions, questions....

Was at a show yesterday and saw (I think) one of GR's IDF kits.  Looks cool and has a *bit* more room than my IDA (but he didn't have an air filter fitted)....

And has additional street creds for not being another boring ole 44....

Cheers, Ian

TK,

I'm not so worried about an intake/carb/filter scenario needing body mods.  The OZ Mini Van is essentially as it rolled out in April 1973.  Has never been restored, so firewall mods could be entertained, if necessary.

With the power unit out I would remove the front subbie for restore & mods (extra stitch welds & gussets on tie-rod ears) and refresh/rebuild the steering rack...have the spring washers etc.

Tranny would get complete refresh/rebuild with Pot joint outputs...bye, bye rubber U-joints (OK for pedestrian power with the stock 1098).  Engine bay would get cleanup, respray.

The Clubbie nose affords easy access and ample space for auxiliary rad & oil cooler, both of which can be blocked off until necessary.  Will install oil temperature gauge plumbed to sump.

The RE intake might not fit without body modifications. Just check.

I was very fortunate to buy a NEW 12G295 head this week and it immediately triggered the planning for a very different 1098 based power unit in the OZ Mini Window Van.

If you have looked at the resources on this site, you will have seen Graham Russell's pieces on developing small bore power.  When I was in Australia, I visited & stayed with Graham in North Rocks, New South Wales.  He was prepared to send me home with his overbore pistons but I declined.

At the time I was half way through the Test Drive (Brisbane/Sydney return) to see what more the Van needed before we set out on our 70-day One Lap of the continent.  When at Graham's the Mini's front end got new Hi-los, new Koni Sport adjustable dampers & somewhat better rubber cones (all that was available).  The old, original cones had been pounded flat on the trip south through the NSW highlands.

I knew the essentially stock 1098 with 1 1/4" SU & pea shooter exhaust was slow on the hills but otherwise, the engine was not on my worry list...and still isn't, because though it is still slow it did make the climb to Tioga Pass (9,945 ft.) over the Sierras & into Yosemite.

With the 12G295 in site, the outlook changed.  I knew Graham had regularly worked magic on both 998 & 1098 units for clients. So I'm going to give it a go.

Assuming my daughter-in-law's health recovers (her 3rd battle with cancer since summer 2015), I am going to take the head with me to OZ in April for Graham to work for larger valves etc. and come home with his RE cam/lifters, +80 pistons & maybe his intake for HIF44 as well.  Will use Maniflow Cooper Freeflow header to RC40 for exhaust.

Off the top, and with a higher compression ratio than I am comfortable with at the outset, Graham thinks 90 hp/90 ft lbs is there.  That would be massive and I'd be happier with somewhat less.  Getting there will be interesting so I'll provide updates as this moves along.

Geoff Tupholme (board Members can see him race this fall in the Can-Am Challenge) built a 1098 for a client in Kamloops.  Big power increase, customer happy and set aside plans for a 1275.  Geoff is supportive of the plan.

PHOTOS: Matt (son) & Graham in shop, Cooper Head