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 Posted: Jan 24, 2017 09:33PM
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i don't think I'm drinking enough chlorine

 Posted: Jan 24, 2017 05:22PM
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US
check for vacuum leaks with a propane torch.  with the torch valve open, NOT LIT.


start the engine and drag the torch nozzle along vacuum lines and intake gaskets. If the engine speeds up, you've found a leak.

I'd look carefully at the vac advance tube right angle fittings from the dizzy to the carb for splits/cracks.

 Posted: Jan 24, 2017 12:58PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
haha! i honestly forgot to mention about the seafoam,sorry!. Yes, you need to inject at least 1ml of seafoam inside each of the spark plug hole, then crank the engine with plug wires disconnected just to distribute the seafoam inside and around the combustion chamber, it does two things, first it eliminates moist and prevent rust build up on the sleeve. / or you can use wd40 if that's what you have in hand. i really wanted to know what caused the flood, was it due to storm or faucet left open overnight? i asked this because the City water contains Chlorine and other chemicals which is good to human but are harmful to engine parts.. if it's rainwater then it's ok, no need to worry about it.
Not to mention it would be impossible to flood an apartment parking lot with a household faucet.
Maybe if he parked the Mini in his bathtub and left the faucet running it could flood .....

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 24, 2017 11:43AM
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CA
Tony (specialist): you really need to catch up to the tour.
In his first post to the thread, NavyMini told us he already has had it running.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 23, 2017 10:23AM
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haha! i honestly forgot to mention about the seafoam,sorry!. Yes, you need to inject at least 1ml of seafoam inside each of the spark plug hole, then crank the engine with plug wires disconnected just to distribute the seafoam inside and around the combustion chamber, it does two things, first it eliminates moist and prevent rust build up on the sleeve. / or you can use wd40 if that's what you have in hand. i really wanted to know what caused the flood, was it due to storm or faucet left open overnight? i asked this because the City water contains Chlorine and other chemicals which is good to human but are harmful to engine parts.. if it's rainwater then it's ok, no need to worry about it.

 Posted: Jan 23, 2017 09:13AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
First , before i give my advice, let me ask you ,how high was the flood water? did it reach the roof or just above the bonnet? did the water due to storm? or faucet left open overnight?   Was the mini running flawlesly BEFORE the fllood? if so then any problem you are encountering right now is due to the flood, an immediate problem that water can cause on a mini has to be electrical....DROP the idea that water can lower your engine compression overn night, it will not!! what possesed you to do an engine compression test btw? aaanyway, 
the condenser was mentioned, yes it is a possibility, the condenser might potentially diminishing due to electrical shortage. the ohm reading of the condenser decreases due to slight elec shortage then in effect ample amount of electricity cannot pass through it thus when you rev it requires more energy which it cannot hold then engine struggles.(replace it)
bear in mind that water, or lots of water cannot ruin the engine overnight , it can neither ruin the electricals, unless you start the engine, then problem$$$ ari$e$.
In cases like this,yes you did the right thing in draining the oil, BUT you should have blown pressurized air to the distributor and grab your wife's blow dryer and blow hot air on the electricals to get rid of the moist that's still in there., 2nd, you shoulndt have taken the carb apart..it was running when you parked it, which means the carb was in good running order, why fix it,because water got into it?? well eliminate the water then it'll start running again.  Open the hood and direct an electric fan on it overnight. Then, start the engine and make it idle for 30 mninutes, don't rev it....good luck!!

What? No Sea Foam or Magic Mystery Oil? You're slipping.

 Posted: Jan 23, 2017 08:39AM
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CA
If the water level got high enough to affect the carb, it may have gotten into the fuel tank and system, which you have not yet mentioned cleaning. You could have water in the fuel line restricting flow. That includes the tiny mesh filter in a HIF carb above the fuel inlet jet. If the inlet jet needle sticks, it can cause excessive fuel level in the bowl, resulting in gas spilling out the overflow/bowl vent while the pump is running. With the engine off, raw fuel can trickle down into the cylinders (if your tank is full enough), diluting the oil. (At startup, one spring, my car had way too much showing on the dipstickand the oil smelled terrible. I now store it with less than half a tank.)

Pressure in the crankcase might be a result of the breather oil traps having water in them.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 22, 2017 06:26PM
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First , before i give my advice, let me ask you ,how high was the flood water? did it reach the roof or just above the bonnet? did the water due to storm? or faucet left open overnight?   Was the mini running flawlesly BEFORE the fllood? if so then any problem you are encountering right now is due to the flood, an immediate problem that water can cause on a mini has to be electrical....DROP the idea that water can lower your engine compression overn night, it will not!! what possesed you to do an engine compression test btw? aaanyway, 
the condenser was mentioned, yes it is a possibility, the condenser might potentially diminishing due to electrical shortage. the ohm reading of the condenser decreases due to slight elec shortage then in effect ample amount of electricity cannot pass through it thus when you rev it requires more energy which it cannot hold then engine struggles.(replace it)
bear in mind that water, or lots of water cannot ruin the engine overnight , it can neither ruin the electricals, unless you start the engine, then problem$$$ ari$e$.
In cases like this,yes you did the right thing in draining the oil, BUT you should have blown pressurized air to the distributor and grab your wife's blow dryer and blow hot air on the electricals to get rid of the moist that's still in there., 2nd, you shoulndt have taken the carb apart..it was running when you parked it, which means the carb was in good running order, why fix it,because water got into it?? well eliminate the water then it'll start running again.  Open the hood and direct an electric fan on it overnight. Then, start the engine and make it idle for 30 mninutes, don't rev it....good luck!!

 Posted: Jan 22, 2017 11:49AM
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US
check your wires and dist. cap for cracks or leaks. sounds like electrical grounding out. 

Start with the simple stuff.  ignition, fuel, combustion. 

Meanwhile if you think you got all the oil out of the crankcase, add some drygas to the fuel. Basically alcohol, I think methanol which absorbs the water.

Oil in carb up to the ring.

Check coil wires too going to dizzy, and  if all that won't work, replace the condensor.

 Posted: Jan 21, 2017 10:00PM
 Edited:  Jan 21, 2017 10:13PM
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Post a picture of your carburetor. You have extra port(s) on it and it previously took a while to figure out how they connected. It is not a standard / Common HIF carb. it has an extra emissions port or two. A couple needed to be looped together I think.

The water in the crankcase could damage bearings and the oil pump. If the cylinder walls had enough water in one/them, it won't crank over because the water won't compress. The mini starter isn't really strong enough to be able to crank hard enough to break things trying to compress a cylinder with water in it.

So I think you can safely wipe any thoughts of ring or valve damage from the front line of things to worry about.

Good suggestions on the dashpot oil and the condenser being a possibility.

1) I would worry about the carb and if the hoses are hooked back up correctly.

2) I would worry about the electrical system. Did you remove the cap and dry out the inside? Consider spray a some WD40 through the distributer in case there's any residual water on the weights flinging up into the sparking bits.

 

 Posted: Jan 21, 2017 02:44PM
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US
I pulled the crankcase breather hose off the carb while it was running and it nearly quit. When I plugged it with my finger, the rpm's came back up no problem. So, I don't think it's a vacuum leak, but I'm still considering it. There is oil in the dashpot, but maybe not quite enough.

The condenser is a good point. There was definitely water in the distro. I might just get a whole rebuild for it.

 Posted: Jan 21, 2017 02:29PM
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GB

Possibly the condensor - you've probably had a lot of water in the dizzy, and it sounds like the condensor has gone phut.

Equally, it could be lack of oil in the dashpot.

 Posted: Jan 21, 2017 02:09PM
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It does sound like a vacuum leak.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Jan 21, 2017 01:38PM
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So, here is a good story time that may be really bad, or an easy fix. 1275cc A+

It starts with some water. A lot of it. The parking lot in the apartment complex flooded and my Mini was in it. After getting it out of the lake and draining the water from the inside of the car, I dropped the bolt and out comes about 5 litres of straight water with the oil. I filled her back up with oil and ran the motor for about 10 minutes to heat it up a bit and capture as much water as I could. Changed it again, waited a week, and then let the oil drain until I didn't see any more milk, then topped it off again. Oil remained clear, so I figure I'm in the clear. Take her for a spin and she's just fine. Until I smell gas. Popped the hood and now there is a waterfall of gas coming from the bottom of the carb. I tore it all the way down, cleaned it up and replaced the float chamber gasket. It was the only one that looked even remotely bad. Re-installed the carb and off for another test. It's fine until I put it in second gear and lay the pedal down. Loss of power and a studder. I end up having to baby it back.

So, here are the symptoms. At idle, she's perfect. No misses at all. If I slowly increase the RPMs, it continues to be fine. But, if I rip on it, it studders again. I also have pressure in the crank case. The filter is clear and moves air, so I'm afraid of a blown ring. I did a compression test and all 4 cylinders pushed 150psi (at least that's what the gauge said). Either way, they are all the same. Any suggestions? I'm thinking carb, but I don't have any vaccumm leaks. Something maybe I missed in the carb?

Just looking for suggestions. Easy things to check before I take the carb off again.