Specialist:
"Fire retardant" means it will slow but not stop fire. (Fresh dog excrement could be called fire retardant, but not once it dies out.)

"Fire resistant" means a material is capable of slowing the passage of fire through a wall etc. Wood has a certain amount of fire resistance since it takes time to burn through.

"Fireproof" means a material (or constructed assembly) will not burn and is capable of stopping the passage of fire through a wall etc.

Sticking the image of a flag on a product does not mean it has been tested or approved by a government body, or anyone else for that matter. It is not even a guarantee the product was made in that country.
I checked that company's website - they do not publish any material safety data, no WHMIS sheet or even post the instructions that may or may not be on the back of the can.

The image you posted is of a general purpose foam insulation. it is intended for low-temperature applications such as around windows and doors in a house. It does not claim to be "fireproof" - merely "fire retardant", which means it would burn slowly and not contribute much to flame spread. If you dig into the information on the product, it probably would tell you it should not be used in an exposed location, but should be covered.

To be "fireproof" it would have to carry a UL (Underwriters Laboratory) approval number or equivalent. It is not a fireproofing product.

first time i heard of a HEAT shielding product that is suspected to be readily combustible. (????) just think of it like a sheet rock, the manufacturer would not manufacture a thing that is not fireproof, otherwise they'll loose their business license.

And pls don't apply this product while smoking cigarrete because you'll be inside the mini, and the mini is leaking oil,it might cause fire.

Another few things to be wary of:
flammability (during application), combustibility while in place, off-gassing during and after application, melting temperature, effect on paint and plastics, especially wiring insulation, removability (some of these foams can be non-temovable)............

Good show us some pics of it on your car "specialist".

sir mal, actually, you can spray this over the firewall and lay a kitchen plastic wrapper over to flatten it a bit and obtain a uniform surface, remember this product is a foam that hardens,this is not one of those sissy lizard thing whatever. good thing about this is that you can form or mold it whatever shape you want, and can fill up small or big gaps.. You can make it thick but 1/2 inch is perfect. this can make an excellent heat barrier and noise barrier as well.

I'm one of the wise and lucky person who got out of the box, discovered, experimented, explored and and actually made it happen, now i'm benefiting from it.

Don't use the stuff "specialist" quoted he is not a specialist at all, that foam is for filling cracks and voids not for laying on flat surface.

This is what you need...nothing else!

Specialist, thank you for the tip on air-condition insulation material.

Incidentally, my username doesn't indicate the birth year. I not only don't get to take money out of 401K, but also need to divert my car fund to rear a 2 year old. That's why this rebuild project is on its 3rd year. Finally the engine is back in the refreshed shell.   it's time to consider insulation.

Cheers.

mr1949, this is just my opinion, i'm not trying to contradict anybody about their opinion, if i were you i'd stay away from "sprayable heat insulator, or even sound deadening heat insulator because they don't work at all. sorry for being blunt but they just simply don't work. now, heater was ,mentioned above, if you are a kin observer like me, you would notice that even if the heater valve is closed there are sill some amount of water that goes to the heater core inside the car, and believe it or not it does makes the inside atmosphere warm, maybe not hot but uncomfortable warm. if you want to test it, go ahead and close the heater valve and drive around for 10minutes, then insert your two fingers inside the heater box,just so you can feel the warm air. although there is no wind that pass thru it because the air vents are open, there are stil moving air inside the car as you drive., sir Dan is right when he asked if; quote" is it really hot or you are just sensitive to slight heat"? Unquote... Now, dynamat is the best heat, sound and vibration shield par exellance. but a little $$$$.. NOW if you are in a jiff which i don't think so because by this time i assume that you are already getting money from your 401K. ) anyway, if you're in a jiff, you can go to lowes or home depot and get one of those aircondition heat insulation, it comes in rolls of 15inchesX12ft ,it has sticky back and hardened foil on the other side, and it does work well in shielding the heat, and best of all ,it only costs $18/roll... good luck!

Dan,

All good questions. I didn't look into this very closely, and just assumed it's due to existing insulation or underlay deteriorating. But I guess I will never find out now the car is in pieces. From my recollection, the heat seemed radiating from under my feet. I have driven cars without AC in summer, and didn't feel my feet being that warm. That probably rules out heat from road surface.  And the duct from grill to heater was definitely missing. It could be a leaky exhaust, given that the underside of the car was very rusty.

Now with this rebuild, I will have the duct, new exhaust, refreshed heater, and new bulkhead insulation and overlay. I hope all these would reduce footwell heat to more comfortable level.

Have to ask: Have you determined whether your Mini is excessively warm (or is it you are more sensitive) and what the source is? 
Possible causes for excessive heat:
  - Exhaust pipe too close to floor
  - exhaust pipe leaking
  - exhaust pipe excessively hot due to tuning issues
  - heat from road surface below car
  - too many unsealed openings between engine bay and cabin
  - insufficient air circulation in engine bay
  - heater fresh air ductwork not complete from grille to heater (taking in air from under wing or engine bay)
  - heater footwell vents closed (should be open with heater valve closed)
  - heater shut-off valve inoperative

Dynamat etc. can be applied to the firewall and foot-well. It is good at sealing many small openings to block air and sound, but being a relatively dense product, it isn't the most efficient insulation. Felt underlay below the carpet would be better, though with every insulation, heat will eventually get through. To stay cooler, you need air flow around your feet.

//www.lizardskin.com/

One solution if you are painting is Lizardskin.

//www.lizardskin.com/

It is a spray on coating, one for heat a different for noise. They can be painted over afterwards. They are not the only company with this out there. Much easier install and less weight. Can be sprayed in door, bottom of roof, anywhere sound control is wanted.

Hey, guys,

Before I started rebuild the car, I used to feel too much heat from engine on my feet. So this time around, I would like to apply some heat insulation. I have seen people applying Dynamat inside engine bay on firewall. Do you guys also use it inside under carpet? There're quite a few products on their website, any suggestion on which one to use?

Thanks.