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 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 01:40PM
 Edited:  Feb 23, 2017 01:44PM
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US
MLM, I do not see contact info in your profile.  Please send me a message at the email listed in my profile.

(lawsondk01-at-gmail-dot-com)

Doug L.
 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 06:47AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
ok, i guess I posted at the end of page 1 instead of on pg. 2.


Did this car ever run right?  


I'm thinking carb needle is wrong. 


Simple stuff. 


think simple.
It's never run right since I've had it.  
I've tried different needles.  can't remember which ones off the top of my head, but the original one i believe was pretty standard.  I tried a very aggressive one.  No change. 

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 07:20PM
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ok, i guess I posted at the end of page 1 instead of on pg. 2.


Did this car ever run right?  


I'm thinking carb needle is wrong. 


Simple stuff. 


think simple.

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 01:46PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
MLM long shot here but is your Mini fitted with a catalytic converter ?
It does have something mid way between the header and muffler.  I think a resonator?  I've thought about eliminating it to see what happens. 
worth a try?
Yes, run it with an open pipe to test it.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 12:53PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
Quote:
Originally Posted by minimans
I really do hate to guess and theorize but the last few posts about springs and tachometers got me thinking. How accurate is the tach? Are we sure it's not over revving and floating the valves? This would explain all the symptoms would it not? If you just swapped in springs you have no idea what the spring pressures are?
I would agree but I don't think it's over revving.  partly because i'm not going 80mph+  just 60. 

Thanks guys.  And i'm not fooling around here.  I'm trying to tackle every suggestion.  I have a full time job so I can get to everything immediately.  I do appreciate all input.   
Doesn't matter how fast your going, it matters how many RPM the engine is doing, but even so if the static spring pressure or compressed pressure is wrong ie too low it will float the valves at much lower engine or car speeds.
Yes exhaust restriction will cause this effect but would not account for the engine noise..............

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 12:41PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minimans
I really do hate to guess and theorize but the last few posts about springs and tachometers got me thinking. How accurate is the tach? Are we sure it's not over revving and floating the valves? This would explain all the symptoms would it not? If you just swapped in springs you have no idea what the spring pressures are?
I would agree but I don't think it's over revving.  partly because i'm not going 80mph+  just 60. 

Thanks guys.  And i'm not fooling around here.  I'm trying to tackle every suggestion.  I have a full time job so I can get to everything immediately.  I do appreciate all input.   

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 12:35PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
MLM long shot here but is your Mini fitted with a catalytic converter ?
It does have something mid way between the header and muffler.  I think a resonator?  I've thought about eliminating it to see what happens. 
worth a try?

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 07:46AM
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MLM long shot here but is your Mini fitted with a catalytic converter ?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 10:04PM
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I really do hate to guess and theorize but the last few posts about springs and tachometers got me thinking. How accurate is the tach? Are we sure it's not over revving and floating the valves? This would explain all the symptoms would it not? If you just swapped in springs you have no idea what the spring pressures are?

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 06:38PM
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MLM, just a piece of advice, pls do follow their advices religiously, otherwise they will stop replying and will ignore you like you dont exist, and worst of all they'll slam you wherever thread you go, dont be like me, i've learned my lesson the hard way.  Aaanyway wish you good luck in fixing your lovely 3,999.99 RPM mni 

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 04:24PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
I am still concerned about the coil wiring.  If that is a pink wire... and if the yellow wire is coming from the solenoid, there is every reason to believe that the Pertronix is running on low voltage which has been known to cause problems.  

The tachometer may or may not highlight that problem.  I was hoping it would be behaving erratically which would confirm a problem in the low tension circuit.
I will de recon on the coil wiring and track everything down.  I'll try that next. Also might run fresh basic wires and skip the tach for testing.  Also need to make sure the ground cable is clean and tight.  
should be able to this weekend or early next week.

Thanks!!!
Away back in the original thread, someone suggested the possibility that the tach (or wiring to it) might be a problem, sapping spark above a certain rpm. Disconnect it and see.
i'll do it.

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 03:21PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
I am still concerned about the coil wiring.  If that is a pink wire... and if the yellow wire is coming from the solenoid, there is every reason to believe that the Pertronix is running on low voltage which has been known to cause problems.  

The tachometer may or may not highlight that problem.  I was hoping it would be behaving erratically which would confirm a problem in the low tension circuit.
I will de recon on the coil wiring and track everything down.  I'll try that next. Also might run fresh basic wires and skip the tach for testing.  Also need to make sure the ground cable is clean and tight.  
should be able to this weekend or early next week.

Thanks!!!
Away back in the original thread, someone suggested the possibility that the tach (or wiring to it) might be a problem, sapping spark above a certain rpm. Disconnect it and see.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 03:18PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
If you read back into the abyss of the thread or maybe the other one he already has a cylinder head on hand to try.

MLM i don't think you answered this question did you replace any valves when you replaced the springs ? Did the car have the issue before you replaced the valve springs ?
????
I did not replaced the valves when changing the springs.  They appeared to all be in good shape.  The springs also seamed fine.  I was hoping to see something abnormal but didn't. i changed the springs anyway. (head was off during the job)  tops of the pistons looked fine.
The problem existed before the spring change and made no difference. 

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 02:33PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
If you read back into the abyss of the thread or maybe the other one he already has a cylinder head on hand to try.

MLM i don't think you answered this question did you replace any valves when you replaced the springs ? Did the car have the issue before you replaced the valve springs ?
????

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 02:08PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
I am still concerned about the coil wiring.  If that is a pink wire... and if the yellow wire is coming from the solenoid, there is every reason to believe that the Pertronix is running on low voltage which has been known to cause problems.  

The tachometer may or may not highlight that problem.  I was hoping it would be behaving erratically which would confirm a problem in the low tension circuit.
I will de recon on the coil wiring and track everything down.  I'll try that next. Also might run fresh basic wires and skip the tach for testing.  Also need to make sure the ground cable is clean and tight.  
should be able to this weekend or early next week.

Thanks!!!

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 01:53PM
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US
I am still concerned about the coil wiring.  If that is a pink wire... and if the yellow wire is coming from the solenoid, there is every reason to believe that the Pertronix is running on low voltage which has been known to cause problems.  

The tachometer may or may not highlight that problem.  I was hoping it would be behaving erratically which would confirm a problem in the low tension circuit.

Doug L.
 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 11:35AM
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I already asked him about the tachometer on maybe the other thread Doug he said it was normal with no fluctuation.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 09:26AM
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US
MLM, I have just read through the 3 pages of this thread and watched your video.  

The coil wiring shown in the video doesn't look right to me but it could just be the lighting.  Please confirm the number of wires on each coil terminal and their colors.  If the wires are not factory original, please state where each goes after leaving the coil.

The Pertronix should have two wires, red and black, with the red wire on coil (+) and the black wire on coil (-).  It looks to me like you have a "pink" wire in addition to those and there is a yellow wire poking up from somewhere.  Please confirm that.

Also, does your car have an electric tachometer?  If so, how is its needle behaving when the problem starts?

Doug L.
 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 08:51AM
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If you read back into the abyss of the thread or maybe the other one he already has a cylinder head on hand to try.

MLM i don't think you answered this question did you replace any valves when you replaced the springs ? Did the car have the issue before you replaced the valve springs ?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 21, 2017 07:54AM
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US
I suggest ,you need to swap a head.

Or have your's rebuilt ... New everything = will cost 500$+ but i would suggest trying to find a used one to try or borrow first.


Buy from host

//www.minimania.com/part/U-12G940LATE/12g940-Late-Model-Used-Cylinder-Head-For-1275cc


//www.ebay.com/itm/MG-MIDGET-SPRITE-1275-CYLINDER-HEAD-REBUILT-/272554305088?hash=item3f7580a640:g:UQ8AAOSwax5Yn~uw&vxp=mtr

//www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Midget-1275cc-Cylinder-Head-Assembly-MG1775-/222412434110?hash=item33c8d06abe:gP4AAOSwx6pYple2&vxp=mtr

Found 72 Messages

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