Generator/Alternator NEW question
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Feb 28, 2017 01:04PM | helpmymini | |
Feb 25, 2017 07:08PM | dklawson | |
Feb 25, 2017 12:46PM | tothefloor | |
Feb 24, 2017 04:43PM | dklawson | |
Feb 24, 2017 03:06PM | onetim | |
Feb 24, 2017 12:51PM | minimans | |
Feb 24, 2017 09:33AM | onetim | |
Feb 24, 2017 07:25AM | dklawson | |
Feb 23, 2017 06:09PM | helpmymini | |
Feb 23, 2017 03:06PM | onetim | |
Feb 23, 2017 02:07PM | 1963SV2 | Edited: Feb 23, 2017 02:14PM |
Feb 23, 2017 09:53AM | onetim | Edited: Feb 23, 2017 10:13AM |
Feb 23, 2017 08:01AM | malsal | |
Feb 23, 2017 07:09AM | mur | |
Feb 23, 2017 06:01AM | onetim | |
Feb 23, 2017 05:08AM | dklawson | |
Feb 23, 2017 04:47AM | helpmymini | |
Feb 22, 2017 07:36PM | minimans | |
Feb 22, 2017 05:56PM | 1963SV2 | Edited: Feb 22, 2017 09:23PM |
Feb 22, 2017 05:34PM | dklawson |
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Hi Mark, been there only with a 5 wire system. Luckily I have a friend who sorted it for me, good luck
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At one time (as in Mark's case) it wasn't converting away from Lucas, it was that you were converting from a generator to an alternator. When making that change, selecting a common alternator that is available locally makes sense. Over the years several different alternators have been preferred due to their reliability and availability. The Saturn conversion just happens to be one that has been popular in recent years.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Mark, if you haven't yet looked at the website I provided the link to earlier, take a look at it and review the first section dealing with the Saturn alternator. It doesn't sound like it is too different from other alternator swaps.
I am curious about you having to grind away anything to mount the alternator. I am used to the front alternator ear being "fixed" and the rear one having a steel bushing. The steel bushing can be moved axially to get the length you need between mounting points. I am only familiar with people having to modify the front ears or mounting points on the engine if the belt does not run true. However, as I mentioned, I am not familiar with the Saturn alternator so maybe it is different.
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When I mentioned the 3-5 volt jump it was mainly because the battery had run down to about 11, so the 13-15 max is where it is when running.
I'll look at what I've done again soon and repost. I like the idea of the knowledge base growing with systems like this.
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This is quite normal when using a generator.. However, one of the main reasons for going to an alternator is that they provide output from very low revs.. So, no, its not normal for the "ignition' light to glow at low revs if you're using an alternator... But I wouldn't worry about it as long as it does go out..
"..P.S. Is there a way to permanently turn off the social media icon bar that appears on the right margin of the webpages here? That thing is driving me nuts..."
YES .....PLEASE...
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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In the charge warning lamp circuit, current flows from a white wire on the ignition switch, to/through the charge warning lamp, and on to the small terminal (stator windings) in the alternator. The other end of the stator windings in the alternator provides the ground connection that allows the warning light to come on when the key is in the run position. As mentioned by others above, when the alternator starts making electricity, the internal circuitry raises the small terminal on the alternator "up" to the system voltage (effectively taking away the ground). Therefore, when the alternator is charging the battery, there is no voltage across the warning lamp and it turns off.
I believe you said that you converted an old control box to be the junction box for the wiring. To paraphrase what that should look like.... Under the control box, ALL the large terminals are joined to each other. Likewise, all the small terminals are joined to each other. Then all the old wires go back on the control box where they were EXCEPT for the BLACK control box ground wire. Do NOT connect the old black ground wire. Tape it up out of the way so it doesn't confuse you in the future.
If you must run a separate wire for the charge warning lamp, run it as I describe in my second paragraph above. Also, visit the Britishwiring.com website and buy the correct color wire. Troubleshooting in the future will be MUCH easier with the correct color codes. In this case, you want the small brown/yellow wire to run from the alternator's small terminal to the charge warning lamp.
3-5 volts increase with the engine running is too much. A fully charged, healthy battery will be measured about 12.5V when it has been resting for a while. With the alternator charging you want to see the voltage across the battery somewhere between 13.5 to 14.5 volts. 15 is sort of OK but pushing the upper limits, 13V is questionably low. A 5V increase would take you upwards of 17V and that will boil the battery dry.
P.S. Is there a way to permanently turn off the social media icon bar that appears on the right margin of the webpages here? That thing is driving me nuts.
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Here are my questions:
1) Does the holder of the gen bulb need to be grounded in the binnacle to work? It's in, but won't go out when running.
2) are there additional wires that need to be bridged so the wiring can be complete and shut the bulb off when running?
3) as mentioned I get 3-5 volt jump when reading at the battery running vs not running. This is with the light continuously on. I just don't want to drive with a red light on!
Can't tell you how much it sucks having a Cooper S and a Lotus BOTH with wiring issues in Michigan during record high temperatures. I just wanna drive!!!!
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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No light = no output/charge. EDIT: No light when there should be light..ie with ignition on but motor not running = no charge. Light on when it shouldn't be (motor running) also = no charge......
My (generic) alternator has three spade terminals, marked + + and IND. The first + is connected using heavy wire (it carries the full output) to the battery terminal on the solenoid while the lighter wire connects the IND terminal and the light...
Seeing that you have just installed the alternator you will need to check what you have done with the wiring noting that the old regulator is no longer required as the alternator is internally regulated....
Cheers, Ian
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//www.britishcarforum.com/bobmuenchausen/17901.html
On the Lucas and Delco 10SI, 12SI three wire alternators the warning lamp must work for the alternator to start charging the battery.
In general, if you see a 1.5V to 2V increase across the battery after you start the engine then the alternator is making electricity and the battery is charging.
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