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 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 03:05PM
Total posts: 214
Last post: Mar 10, 2017
Member since:Jul 5, 1999
US
Hey Dean, I'm down in Collinsville.  I'm not the most experienced, but I can lend a hand!  

--trying to set a record for the longest Mini restoration ever!
 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 08:44AM
Total posts: 7002
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
I'm guessing, but the green powdery stuff is probably dried fuel residue (or something similar) stained green by oxidized brass. I think you would benefit from a new jet and perhaps needle if the powder did not come off easily.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 07:51AM
Total posts: 6966
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Glad to hear it is up and running. You will probably still need to clean that jet thoroughly with a strong solvent just fill up the float bowl and let it sit for a while then blow it out or you might find it easier to just replace the jet assembly they are not that expensive.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 06:46AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Ok so I finally got around to draining the tank and blowing out all the lines. Cleaned out the fuel bowl (nothing really in it),  verify clean fuel delivery to an empty jar. Hooked everything back up and still no start. Took the suction chamber off and carefully removed the piston with the needle on it. The needle was covered in what appeared to be oxidation it was a green powdery substance. Not sticky like dried fuel more like mold (obviously not mold) or oxidation. Anyway cleaned it up and put it back together and fired right up! Still needs to be tuned a bit but is running! Thanks for all your help and I'm starting to think may I can figure this carb out!

 Posted: Feb 26, 2017 06:51PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Thanks guys. I wont have time to get the fuel drained and carb cleared until some time this week.  I don't want to be a pain but I do appreciate your help and advice and will look into it asap.  Fingers crossed it just old fuel now!

 Posted: Feb 26, 2017 10:20AM
Total posts: 6966
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
That is after he cleaned up the needle and seat and filled up the float bowl with old gas and tried to start it. It was running when parked and the gas is old he needs to sort that and the carb needle/seat out first then IF there is another problem address that so this doesn't turn into another 3 page plus thread of "have you done this or that".

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 10:07PM
Total posts: 6231
Last post: Apr 22, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
he later said it's wetting the plugs and not firing.


not sure if I'm early or late.

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 04:38PM
Total posts: 6966
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Mike he said it fires right up with starting fluid.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 03:52PM
Total posts: 6231
Last post: Apr 22, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
change the inline fuel filter. It doesn't look like there's grit in there, but I bet there is.  cheap.

Next put new fuel in tank after draining old fuel.


Now if the plugs are wet, you might want to check the spark.  Are there any lose or broken wires on the coil?

Pull the dist cap and see if there are any frayed or marginal wires in there.


Put it all back together.


Have someone crank the engine with a screwdriver stuck in the ignition wire end and ground it to the engine or spark plug. Look for a spark.

Or you can get an inexpensive inline light that will show spark strength.   BTW,  USE A INSULATED SCREWDRIVER WHEN YOU DO THIS AN DO NOT TOUCH ANY METAL.  (if you do,  you won't do it a second time.)

Do this with each plug also.  

Make sure your ignition wires are tight on the dist cap and coil and plugs.


get a manual.

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 01:05PM
Total posts: 264
Last post: Apr 23, 2017
Member since:Nov 1, 2012
I want a second something that Mur said. Do not use starter fluid sorry I can't remember what to use right now it was something like carb cleaner something like that just not starter fluid

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 12:37PM
Total posts: 7002
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
I stand sit corrected!
I had my 2 HIF44's apart so many times trying to resolve a similar persistent issue, I thought the HS's had the same screen. When I have noting better to do, I'll take apart the old HS. Cheers.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 07:46AM
Total posts: 6966
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
The air is not to clean it Dan moreso to make sure the jet is clear and has good flow if it does not then the cleaning begins. It is a HS series carb so there is no screen above the jet.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Feb 24, 2017 02:18PM
Total posts: 7002
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Rather than blowing air up through the inlet jet, just unscrew it and clean it properly. It should have a small screen above the jet that will need to be cleaned, especially if it is gummed from old fuel. 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 24, 2017 07:24AM
Total posts: 6966
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
As the gas is old if you have an airline make sure the passage from the float bowl through the jet is clear. To do this you will need to remove the top of the carb along with the piston and damper and just put some nominal air pressure to the jet or float bowl (with a rag to seal it) and look/ feel for no restrictions and a decent flow. When you drain the tank with the fuel line disconnected at both ends you may want to blow it out as well.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Feb 24, 2017 06:35AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Thanks for the help guys and you were correct! Sticking float valve!

It appears it was stuck by the rubber/oldgas as it is plenty lose to slide in the chamber. 

Still not starting which now I'm presuming the gas is too old. Now when I check the spark plugs they were damp unlike before. The gas is not igniting. I wont have time to work on it again until Sunday or Monday now. I'll get all the old gas out of the carb bowl. 

I will be getting a Haynes manual very soon. 

And here is a picture of my car just because everyone likes pictures of minis! 


Thanks again and I'll keep you posted. 

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 08:02PM
Total posts: 6231
Last post: Apr 22, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
i'm gonna second fresh fuel, and don't add to what you have. Discard that.

Also will second and third getting a Haynes manual.  the reason is that it gives great info on diagnosis on just these kinds of issues.

And it's specific to your mini.  You won't be hunting around the net asking this and that.

You'll be able to dial it in and then come here to ask more specific stuff.

Pretty sure you've got crud in the float bowl needle and supply to the carb.  Take it apart and use carb cleaner or compressed air
to dislodge any crud in there. 

It might be a piece of crud lodged above the needle in the bowl cap.

simple stuff and don't start replacing this and that. You'll never get the thing fixed.

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 11:27AM
Total posts: 13134
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Quote:
Modern gasolene lasts about 3 months without stabilizer. Drain the tank, put in fresh and use the old gas in a modern car with a computer that will compensate for the tired fuel.

Get a manual.
Can't be......they've been driving in the Walking Dead for six years now!      ,.....with no fresh gas

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 09:31AM
Total posts: 47
Last post: Feb 28, 2017
Member since:Jul 4, 2005
US
Also check with the guys at J&W Automotive in South County (Tesson & 270).
They did some work on mine after it was in storage before I shipped it down to me....(grew up in St.Louis). 
My dad knew the owner, the sons run it now I believe. They're a regular shop, but always have a few Minis, Metros etc around so they're familiar with a classic.

http://www.jandwautomotive.com/

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 06:43AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by mayfair87
Hey Dean, I'll pass this message to some locals. There are three classic owners down in Arnold, mo and I just meet someone today that's in Waterloo. PM your email.
-JR
JR/mayfiar87 I cant figure out how to pm on here so here is my email shoretelphoneguy@gmail.com my wife actually works in Arnold so its about 50 miles from my house! Thanks for passing my info on. I'm going to try a few things tonight too. 

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 06:38AM
Total posts: 1441
Last post: Apr 24, 2017
Member since:Oct 4, 2013
GreenDean.. MADMEN  used to be  based out of st louis.. with the huge help from Karl S..  has anyone heard from the classic mini group recently??   later bc

Found 31 Messages

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