Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Mar 10, 2017 03:44PM | malsal | |
| Mar 10, 2017 02:38PM | Alex | |
| Mar 10, 2017 01:01PM | Rosebud | |
| Mar 8, 2017 07:23AM | malsal | |
| Mar 7, 2017 09:15PM | Rosebud | |
| Mar 6, 2017 09:17AM | malsal | |
| Mar 6, 2017 09:03AM | tmsmith | |
| Mar 5, 2017 08:54PM | Rosebud | Edited: Mar 5, 2017 09:04PM |
| Mar 5, 2017 06:31PM | malsal | |
| Mar 5, 2017 04:04PM | Rosebud | |
| Feb 27, 2017 06:00PM | malsal | |
| Feb 27, 2017 10:36AM | Cheleker | Edited: Feb 27, 2017 10:45AM |
| Feb 27, 2017 09:15AM | malsal | |
| Feb 27, 2017 08:43AM | Rosebud | Edited: Feb 27, 2017 08:44AM |
| Feb 26, 2017 08:42PM | TK | |
| Feb 26, 2017 04:57PM | malsal | |
| Feb 26, 2017 11:47AM | Rosebud | Edited: Feb 26, 2017 11:56AM |
| Feb 26, 2017 10:09AM | Spank | |
| Feb 26, 2017 10:08AM | malsal | |
| Feb 25, 2017 10:36PM | mur |
Found 23 Messages
Posted:
Mar 10, 2017
03:44PM
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Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Nice install Rosebud. Just a heads up some of the bellow type seal protectors in the past have been made too thick…
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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You may find that a previously untroublesome gearbox will jump out of gear on the overrun with one of the too-thick bellows.
I refreshed the 'box in Betty some years ago, and on day three of jumping out of gear cut the bellows off - never had another problem !
I refreshed the 'box in Betty some years ago, and on day three of jumping out of gear cut the bellows off - never had another problem !
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Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023 Member since:Jul 15, 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Nice install Rosebud. Just a heads up some of the bellow type seal protectors in the past have been made too thick…
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Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Nice install Rosebud. Just a heads up some of the bellow type seal protectors in the past have been made too thick if you have issues with 2nd, 4th and reverse it may be you have a bad one. Basically the bellows do not compress enough and hold the shifter back from fully engaging the gear. You can tell by putting the car in one of those gears and if it feels "squishy" and not a precise thunk like the other gears you have bellows that are too thick. It sounds simple and not a big issue but it will put wear and tear on the gearbox and then it starts wearing and jumping out of gear on you.
Not trying to scare you but just thought i would let you know as yours look quite compressed in the picture.
Not trying to scare you but just thought i would let you know as yours look quite compressed in the picture.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023 Member since:Jul 15, 2008
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
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Image Gallery
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Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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The top pic is for the differential cover to support the rod change bar you don't need that. The second pic is the correct part but you could also just use the seal kit MSSK050 which has the bushing seal and rubber boot to stop the dirt and dust destroying the sea.
To remove the current bushing try putting the car in 4th gear then clamp a pair of vise grips around the bushing then slowly and easily shift into 3rd and see if the bushing has pulled out of the housing.
To remove the current bushing try putting the car in 4th gear then clamp a pair of vise grips around the bushing then slowly and easily shift into 3rd and see if the bushing has pulled out of the housing.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 3749
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Jun 23, 2000
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This kit has the metal bush/support with an o-ring. Perhaps at one time they made them in plastic or nylon.
I believe people have resorted to drilling a very small hole and using a self-tapping screw to use as an aid to removal.
Terry
I believe people have resorted to drilling a very small hole and using a self-tapping screw to use as an aid to removal.
Terry
Edited:
Mar 5, 2017
09:04PM
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Total posts: 1368
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Image Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
I would remove the yellow bushing if only to see if there is a seal behind it that someone failed to remove. There is a reason that bushing has pushed the seal out and you need to investigate it as putting a new seal back in and pushing the bushing back in place without inspecting is a waste of time as you will be back in the same position leaking oil very quickly.
Our host has two items called Rod Change Bushings; 2A3502 & 13H7286. Neither of them look like my yellow thing. I'll call MM in the morning and see what they have to say. Thanks for your help!
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I would remove the yellow bushing if only to see if there is a seal behind it that someone failed to remove. There is a reason that bushing has pushed the seal out and you need to investigate it as putting a new seal back in and pushing the bushing back in place without inspecting is a waste of time as you will be back in the same position leaking oil very quickly.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023 Member since:Jul 15, 2008
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
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Originally Posted by Cheleker
The seals are made to seal not to act as supports for the shaft running through them, that' why the kits have the support ring in them. At some later time the cases were changed to have support for the shaft closer to the hole. The kit's support ring and a new seal won't fit and only the seal is needed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheleker
If I had a dollar for all the times i've dug out two leaking seals, I could retire. Wait a minute...
The seals are made to seal not to act as supports for the shaft running through them, that' why the kits have the support ring in them. At some later time the cases were changed to have support for the shaft closer to the hole. The kit's support ring and a new seal won't fit and only the seal is needed.
I lightly chamfer the end of the roll pin that is going to go in first, and like malsal I use a little safety wire; especially if I'm reusing the pin.
The seals are made to seal not to act as supports for the shaft running through them, that' why the kits have the support ring in them. At some later time the cases were changed to have support for the shaft closer to the hole. The kit's support ring and a new seal won't fit and only the seal is needed.
I lightly chamfer the end of the roll pin that is going to go in first, and like malsal I use a little safety wire; especially if I'm reusing the pin.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 10330
Last post: Jan 27, 2021 Member since:Dec 3, 2002
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Cars in Garage: 0
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If I had a dollar for all the times i've dug out two leaking seals, I could retire. Wait a minute...
The seals are made to seal not to act as supports for the shaft running through them, that' why the kits have the support ring in them. At some later time the cases were changed to have support for the shaft closer to the hole. The kit's support ring and a new seal won't fit and only the seal is needed.
I lightly chamfer the end of the roll pin that is going to go in first, and like malsal I use a little safety wire; especially if I'm reusing the pin.
The seals are made to seal not to act as supports for the shaft running through them, that' why the kits have the support ring in them. At some later time the cases were changed to have support for the shaft closer to the hole. The kit's support ring and a new seal won't fit and only the seal is needed.
I lightly chamfer the end of the roll pin that is going to go in first, and like malsal I use a little safety wire; especially if I'm reusing the pin.
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Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Yes correct. In your case if you put it in 1st or 3rd gear it should just come right out as it is already half way there. You need to find out why the piece behind the seal came loose and moved along the shaft pushing out the seal.
TK's idea won't work because of the issues above you will more than likely have the same issue and as they say if it is worth doing do it right.
TK's idea won't work because of the issues above you will more than likely have the same issue and as they say if it is worth doing do it right.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023 Member since:Jul 15, 2008
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
Quote:
… So, whatever I find in there, it should all come out with a pick without any further disassembly. Is that correct?
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push the existing seal in further and put a new seal in behind it. Job done.
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Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Yes you need it put into the reverse gate area but not fully engaged into reverse is what Mur is saying that way you can get to the roll pin to punch it out.
As Mur pointed out your seal and bushing are not in place (2nd picture) and have in fact moved along the shaft and are hanging out of the gearbox which is why you have the leak.
As Mur pointed out your seal and bushing are not in place (2nd picture) and have in fact moved along the shaft and are hanging out of the gearbox which is why you have the leak.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 1368
Last post: Jul 20, 2023 Member since:Jul 15, 2008
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 117 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
Dismantle the rod change coupler, using the correct size drift and locating the shifter to the right of the 3rd/4th gate, however you do not need to go back into reverse, just stay above it…
The transmission was rebuilt by a reputable Mini performance shop and I'm sure they did it right. I just don't know if they installed the anti-leak kit or simply replaced the factory seal. Haynes says the single factory seal often leaks early on, which is what I'm experiencing, so I'm definitely installing the complete anti-leak kit. So, whatever I find in there, it should all come out with a pick without any further disassembly. Is that correct?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
Now decide if you need another spacer and seal, or if neatly reinstalling the items you have will suffice. As you can see, the spacer bound to the shaft and was pulled out, along with the seal, when you shifted the car into first or third.
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Total posts: 8382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
The problem is your floor is too clean ! Where are you parking that car in the kitchen LOL.
Seriously the part you need is MSSK050 less than ten bucks from our host.
Seriously the part you need is MSSK050 less than ten bucks from our host.
Thanks for finding that anti-oil leak kit. I always seem to have trouble searching for parts by name on our host's website. It either returns a bunch of unrelated stuff or nothing at all. You don't happen to know the correct size of the roll pin I'll need do you?
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 5840
Last post: Nov 1, 2019 Member since:Nov 12, 1999
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Dismantle the rod change coupler, using the correct size drift and locating the shifter to the right of the 3rd/4th gate, however you do not need to go back into reverse, just stay above it. Remove and clean the spacer and seal that you already have. Carefully clean the shaft going into the transmission and the area around it where the seal and spacer are situated.
Now decide if you need another spacer and seal, or if neatly reinstalling the items you have will suffice. As you can see, the spacer bound to the shaft and was pulled out, along with the seal, when you shifted the car into first or third.
Now decide if you need another spacer and seal, or if neatly reinstalling the items you have will suffice. As you can see, the spacer bound to the shaft and was pulled out, along with the seal, when you shifted the car into first or third.
Found 23 Messages
