Yeah, I think I would have preferred the knob type valve as well. As I think about it now I realize I'll probably adjust the valve, find the sweet spot and leave it—a knob would have been fine.

I've read here about the ½" slave cylinder solution for rear lockup, but that wouldn't have allowed me to buy another shiny anodized billet gizmo. Besides, the red lever matches my aircraft style dashboard switches. 

Your problem is with balance, the rear wheel cyls. should be 1/2 or 5/8 bore dia. and no bigger. I'm not a fan of the Tilton prop. valve one in the pic. The small knob type work well and are easy to hide. Rarely are more than a couple of adjustments required. I currently have a car with four pot KADs and super fins. We changed the rear wheel cyls. and it stops great no rear lock up. I wait way late to brake and love how they haul her down. Steve (CTR)

Re: Residual Brake Pressure Valve.  I just reread the description of the pressure valve. It sounds like the valve is useful only when the master cylinder is mounted below the brake calipers. This would not apply to our Minis unless you have a very unusual system. I wonder if my son-in-law is aware of this.

Rosebud has 4-pot KAD discs on the front and Superfins on the rear.  I have my dual (front/rear) master brake cylinders fully biased to the front but I still lock up the rears under heavy braking. So, I'm installing an adjustable brake bias valve in the cabin. 

Question: Does anyone have any (Mini) experience with these brake pressure residual valves [see photo]? My son-in-law has them on his rock crawler and loves them. I know they have nothing to do with my brake bias issue, but since I'm fiddling with brake lines and will have to bleed the system anyway, I thought I might try them out.