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 Posted: Mar 13, 2017 12:24PM
Total posts: 3599
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US
Dan:
I am retired, so we can easily work something out.
My email should be in the profile.
Terry

 Posted: Mar 13, 2017 12:22PM
Total posts: 23
Last post: May 11, 2017
Member since:Apr 7, 2012
Hello All,

Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated (and this is why I like the Mini/MINI community - lots of good folks!)

I've tried the soak in vinegar and use my noodly arms, a breaker bar and a impact gun. No joy in Dan land... Did notice thought that after I got the thing semi clean, the threads are reasonably munged on the line ports! Can't get any sort of torque on the connections... Yay! Helicoil time!!

@Terry, Would love to meet up with you and hopefully take a look at the valve you have. I work in Milpitas (237 and 880). Let me know when/where is good for you (my email is in my profile - tried emailing you but got a bounce back)

Again, thanks to everybody!

Daniel

 Posted: Mar 12, 2017 08:29PM
mur
Total posts: 5588
Last post: May 23, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
I used to use phosphoric acid to pull rust off. Molasses interests me but Rick's climate is more appropriate - I should mail him some brake master cylinders to add to his mix. Whatever chemical you use, it is still a chemical and it continues to be reactionary so if it is in the garage it can damage things, and if it is in a garden shed vermin can get to it. 

 Posted: Mar 12, 2017 07:54PM
Total posts: 6260
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
Mur,
ever done the vinegar soak for bare metal?

 Posted: Mar 12, 2017 08:45AM
Total posts: 6265
Last post: Apr 30, 2017
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
CA
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1 part molasses to 3-5 parts water (depending on the extent of rust).  Soak a day or so remove, rinse with water, inspect, put back in...you will soon get a handle on how your mix is working, several days, a week maybe or more.

The head I built up for the 1293 was hot tanked by the machine shop twice...I was not happy.  A week in molasses/water, it was clean.

Head got skimmed face, hardened exhaust seats, new bronze guides, new valves/duplex springs...

Remember - all grease/oil etc. must be removed first, paint too if overtop of rust.

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 08:16PM
Total posts: 609
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Aug 15, 2002
US
Sorry for the hijack-Rick what is the molasses/water mix ratio?

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 07:30PM
Total posts: 3599
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US
Dan:
If you wish to try a used one, I am pretty sure I have one that "worked when removed."
I replaced the one on our tin wagon Traveller. But it has been off the car for about three years, so I am not sure of the status.

I am in Fremont and I know we met before somewhere.

Terry

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 05:34PM
Total posts: 3599
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Jun 23, 2000
US
It looks like a supply issue.

The adjustable version is available:
http://www.minimania.com/part/21A1774/Classic-Austin-Mini-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-All-Mk1-Thru-1969

If this is what you need.

 Posted: Mar 11, 2017 10:13AM
Total posts: 3353
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
US
What are they talking about? I was surprised they are out of stock but I should have been more surprised you could buy them as long as you could. I haven't seen a kit for one in years, think I got a couple from Mad Matt in OZ years ago when he was here every day. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 09:24PM
Total posts: 9918
Last post: May 28, 2017
Member since:Dec 3, 2002
US
Yes.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 08:31PM
mur
Total posts: 5588
Last post: May 23, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
Wouldn't an Elf have a rear pressure limiting valve and not the inertia type?

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 05:04PM
Total posts: 6265
Last post: Apr 30, 2017
Member since:Nov 2, 2006
CA
Yes, I bought 2 of the NOS items...both were in fact used and in ratty shape.  Opened them up, soaked in molasses/water bath to de-rust. Clean face on the copper sealing washer.

Key thing is for the shuttle valve to be free. (when the ball rolls up the ramp it presses on the shuttle reducing the flow of fluid to the rear)

PHOTO: after molasses/water bath & rinse, the ball is pitted but the shuttle valve (pointing at the ball) is free

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 04:51PM
Total posts: 6260
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
open it up and clean it out. It's just a ball and ramp.  

soak it in vinegar if it's rusted stuck closed. For the ball, you can find a new ball bearing plated same size.

 Posted: Mar 10, 2017 03:02PM
Total posts: 23
Last post: May 11, 2017
Member since:Apr 7, 2012
Hello All,

I'm in the long drawn out process of restoring an old Elf, and find myself in need of a rear bias valve (for single line cars). Mine is permanently rusted closed (i.e. no fluid transfer = no rear brakes!)

Apparently, these are no longer available from our hosts or from the many other online classic Mini parts suppliers.

My question...... Would any one have one they are willing to part with (for a reasonable sum)? Or have a suggestion for an aftermarket replacement?

Many thanks in advance! Oh, and I am located in San Jose, California

Cheers! Daniel