5% Off with Coupon Code

800-946-2642
Shop by Car
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 73 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3 | 4

 Posted: Mar 31, 2017 04:13PM
Total posts: 8405
Last post: May 23, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by daffodildeb
But what about connectors?  That's where the tape is on this car, so logically they should be replaced, too.  I know there's an elbow connector on one end, but spouse taped the other end, so I don't know how it connects.
Generic rubber vacuum hose of the right diameter will slip right onto the brass nipples without connectors.  No, the simple hose will not be right-angled but it doesn't have to be either.  Again if you want original parts then our host will have them.

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 31, 2017 02:49PM
Total posts: 9918
Last post: May 28, 2017
Member since:Dec 3, 2002
US
Use the SEARCH feature on this site. Set it for PARTS and look for "vacuum hose" to see hose and end options.

 Posted: Mar 31, 2017 01:00PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
But what about connectors?  That's where the tape is on this car, so logically they should be replaced, too.  I know there's an elbow connector on one end, but spouse taped the other end, so I don't know how it connects.

 Posted: Mar 31, 2017 03:57AM
Total posts: 8405
Last post: May 23, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by daffodildeb
I'm going to order a vacuum line.  Since shipping is more than the part, what else should I add to the order while I'm at it?  New engine?  (Just kidding.)
There is nothing particularly special about the vacuum advance supply tubing.  Buy the part from our host if you are going for originality.  If you just want to see if this makes any difference, visit the local parts store and tell them you need to buy a few feet of bulk vacuum tubing.  They will either have it in the back or on the shelves with the blister packed items.  Measure the diameter of the hose nipple on the distributor to determine what size tubing you need.  I believe the hose will be either 1/8" or 5/32" inside diameter.  

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 30, 2017 07:02PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
Dan, I didn't have this problem before the last fill.  I'm now about 3 gallons down since I filled up.  About 1/2 gallon into the tank, I added Seafoam, per bottle instructions, but I'm still over 1/2 tank full.

I'm going to order a vacuum line.  Since shipping is more than the part, what else should I add to the order while I'm at it?  New engine?  (Just kidding.)

 Posted: Mar 30, 2017 03:27PM
 Edited:  Mar 30, 2017 03:38PM
Total posts: 7056
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
If you have an electric fuel pump when you turn on the ignition to just the on position you will hear a ticking or buzzing noise, if you hear nothing you should have a manual one and it will be mounted on the rear of the engine under the exhaust manifold close to the radiator side of the car. Following the fuel line from the carb is another way to tell which pump you have.
If you have the SU auf201 pump, you may get only one click or none at all if the engine was run recently and the carb fuel bowl is full.
The usual location for an electric pump is under the car in the front left corner of the rear subframe. This is just below the front end of the fuel tank.

Question for Deb:
Is the condition worse when the fuel tank is about half full or less?

Reason I ask: A Mini fuel system is pretty much self-priming - the top section of the fuel tank (except on estates and vans) is higher than the fuel inlet to the SU carbs. I discovered this when I parked my Mini with a full tank and a faulty fuel inlet valve. Gas trickled right through the carb, down into the cylinders and right past the rings into the sump/gearbox. Not the whole tank - just until the level dropped to the height of the carb throat. My engine oil was very over-full and smelled weird. Although I haven't tried it, the engine could probably be fed by gravity without a pump, though it wouldn't accelerate well.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Mar 30, 2017 04:23AM
Total posts: 8405
Last post: May 23, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US

For the fuel pump location and appearance, go back to page 2 of the thread and look for Dan's message where he posted a picture showing the location and top of the mechanical fuel pump.  On that page I suggested that if you do not have a mechanical pump you trace the fuel line back from the engine bay to the boot looking for an electric pump.  Factory pumps are cylindrical with a sort of disk flange and they were mounted on the rear subframe.  Aftermarket pumps take a variety of shapes and may be mounted in the factory location or inside the boot.  Google for images of "SU auf201 pump".  For the aftermarket pump shapes, Google for images of "Facet pump".  You will see a variety of shapes and configurations that are possible... and there are other brands.

You asked why the engine might run OK at 3k RPM or higher if this is fuel starvation.  This goes back to my earlier question.  I thought you said you were downshifting a lot to get/keep the RPM up?  The amount of fuel consumed in a high-gear with low engine RPM will be identical to some low-gear running at higher RPM.  In short, if you are downshifting and able to rev the engine to a higher RPM but NOT accelerate to a higher road speed, that more or less confirms a fuel supply problem.

That being said, as Jemal pointed out, if using the choke made things "worse" when the engine is having problems, that sounds like too much fuel, not too little.

Doug L.
 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 08:22PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
Okay, let me check all this out.  I'll listen again, but I don't recall hearing any noise when the key is turned.  

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 07:30PM
Total posts: 7056
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Another set of possibilities: 
According to Malsal, the car probably has a HIF type carb. That suggests a few ideas.
1. The "choke" mechanism does not pull the main jet down, but opens a secondary fuel passage to enrichen the mixture. Ethanol in fuel might have affected its seals, leading to a rich condition at various rpms, and the problems being noticeable in the intermediate range. Or the choke cable may not have any slack, leaving the choke slightly 'on'.
2. The idle mixture screw moves a bi-metallic lever to adjust the height of the main jet. The mixture is not easy to adjust because the bi-metal is intended to lean out the mixture as the engine warms up. If not done quickly, the person tuning is chasing a moving target and can't get it right, resulting in a rich tuning once on the road.
3. The dashpot may have an inappropriate weight of oil, making it respond to quickly or slowly. Too quick may result in a momentary lean condition, or too slow would result in a momentary rich condition.
4. The dashpot may be sticking or may have its air ports blocked.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 07:26PM
Total posts: 7009
Last post: May 20, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
If you have an electric fuel pump when you turn on the ignition to just the on position you will hear a ticking or buzzing noise, if you hear nothing you should have a manual one and it will be mounted on the rear of the engine under the exhaust manifold close to the radiator side of the car. Following the fuel line from the carb is another way to tell which pump you have.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 05:46PM
 Edited:  Mar 29, 2017 05:47PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
Haven't a clue about the fuel pump.  It's whatever was on the car when it was shipped up here.  What should I look for to tell?

(Why would it run well until last month?  I didn't change anything.)

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 05:35PM
Total posts: 1017
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Nov 3, 2011
Sounds too rich to me.... too much fuel, which the engine is able to consume more cleanly at higher revs. Are you running a stock fuel pump?  Often electric pumps gets replaced with more generic brands, with the attitude being something like "WHAT??? $200 for a fuel pump??  Autozone has pumps for 20 bucks!!".... Problem is, most electric pumps make too much pressure for the SU carbs, and start pushing fuel right past the float, and down the engine's throat!

Jemal

Sales & Technical Support at MiniMania

Follow progress on all my projects at CooperRoadMini.com

 

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 05:25PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
More data points:

Jemel--When I pull on the choke, it runs rougher.  Ditto when it was a cold day, earlier in the month--starts fine with choke, and then after a few seconds runs smoother as I push it back in.

MiniMike--if it's starving at higher rpms, why would it run great above 3000?  It's not happy until that point.  Today, after replacing the plugs (yes, correctly gapped), I drove around the neighborhood.  A very clear shuddering between 2200 and 3000, then smooth above that point.  The street I was driving on has some grades, but I noticed this even on level ground.  BTW, it idled okay while I got out to shut the bonnet.  The idle speed is lower than I like, but it didn't try to quit or stumble.  

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 04:58PM
Total posts: 1017
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Nov 3, 2011
OK, try this.... Assuming you have one (or more) of the SU carbs, next time it sputters, pull your choke cable and see what effect that has.  If it's sputtering from fuel starvation, or "going lean", then pulling the choke should help, as you are simply moving the jet tube down, away from the needle by pulling the choke.  That's right, with an SU, there is no "choke" technically, it's simply an "enrichment" of the mixture!

If it makes it worse, check your fuel pressure, needle and seat(s), float levels etc....  If any question about leaking vacuum hose, disconnect and plug off as a way to test.... enough of a leak and you will "go lean"!

Jemal

Sales & Technical Support at MiniMania

Follow progress on all my projects at CooperRoadMini.com

 

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 04:17PM
Total posts: 6260
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
think internal collapse. starving the higher revs

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 03:15PM
Total posts: 7056
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
OKAY... new issue to consider. Ethanol causes rubber in Mini fuel lines and carb components to swell or deteriorate.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 02:54PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
There probably is some old fuel mixed in, but I've filled up 3 times since the car was delivered up here, so it would be pretty diluted.  Two of those tanks were premium (93 octane) with ethanol, and 1 tank--the last--was premium (93 octane) non-ethanol.  I'm perfectly willing to believe junk IN the tank is at least part of the problem, though.

I replaced the plugs today, no change.  Will order a vacuum line.  Around here, there aren't too many options for auto parts stores...

 Posted: Mar 29, 2017 11:36AM
Total posts: 1017
Last post: May 26, 2017
Member since:Nov 3, 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by daffodildeb
Oops, sorry--I did leave out a lot!  It has the 1275 engine, with electronic ignition, so no points.  I do have the Haynes manual, and I noticed the plugs that were in the car are not the ones listed in the manual (same brand).  They are sold on this site, though, as a good general plug.

We're going to replace the vacuum line, because we are suspecting leaks, so that's a given.  

As for when it started running poorly, it was after I got the last tank of gas.  Again the question--bad gas at the station, or junk in the tank stirred up by running too low?  Since I don't have a very good gas gauge, I've been filling up by mileage.  The last fill-up was 7.07 gallons.  The previous one was 6.1.  I think there was a tank before that, but I've only had the car since late October.  It ran fine then.  First hint of problem was with the last tank.  BTW, we (Villagers) use non-ethanol around here for older cars, and my husband has filled up from the same pump in the 356, never had a problem.

Not sure if it's been brought up, but could the fuel in the tank be old?  My own Cooper S coming out of winter hibernation was rough.  Probably last run just before thanksgiving, and was unhappy when I took it out to a local gathering last week.  So in less than 4 months, fuel in the tanks was noticeably off!  Modern fuel is just not up to modern standards, specially in old cars with vented tanks. 

Jemal

Sales & Technical Support at MiniMania

Follow progress on all my projects at CooperRoadMini.com

 

 Posted: Mar 28, 2017 08:45PM
Total posts: 7009
Last post: May 20, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
That will work for your car. You can buy just the ends at just about any local auto parts store just take the old one with you to match it up.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Mar 28, 2017 08:23PM
Total posts: 49
Last post: May 29, 2017
Member since:Aug 25, 2016
Oil is fine, not overfilled.  Clutch works perfectly, not slipping at all.  This isn't a clutch problem.  

I'm back home, and ready to work.  Going to do the plugs tomorrow.  Spouse went to the local auto parts store today to get a vacuum line, but didn't know what to get.  Any hints?  Is there a universal fit line, or is it Mini-only?  If the latter, what would a 1275 engine take?  On this site, I see Part No: VAC001.  Looks right--is it?

Found 73 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3 | 4