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 Goofy Fuel Gauge

 Created by: Rosebud
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Apr 20, 2017 04:21AM
Total posts: 8435
Last post: Jun 27, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US
Michael, that looks more like a fuel cell than a fuel tank.  Very pretty.

Since your gauge is reading in reverse it probably has a sending unit matching the old GM calibration (0 Ohms = Empty to 90 Ohms = Full).

Do not try just any fuel sending unit.  The post 1964 Mini sending units and gauges have a calibration that goes from nominally 270 Ohms = Empty to 30 Ohms = Full.  You won't find that exact rating for the generic sending units but you WILL find them in the range of 240 Ohms to 33 Ohms.  That's the one you want.  With that sending unit range your gauge will read empty a bit early but consider that a safety margin or reserve.


Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 05:45PM
 Edited:  Apr 19, 2017 05:56PM
Total posts: 746
Last post: Jun 26, 2017
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
The later senders can only go in the tank one way.

Does your fuel sending unit bolt to the tank (early design) or is it secured with a bayonet locking ring (later cars).  This is important for figuring out what's going on.
I have a 10 gal fuel cell with an internal bladder. I can't recall where I sourced the fuel sender unit—it's gotta be the only receipt I can't find. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson

  1. 3. Order the Gauge Wizard from Spiyda Design in the U.K.  Their Gauge Wizard will allow you to match different sending units and gauges that would otherwise be incompatible.  

Gauge Wizard Link:
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html

The Spiyda Gauge-Wizard looks like a possibility. Although, I might just try another generic sending unit rather than fiddling w/ the Spiyda. They're surprisingly cheap. On the other hand, E -> F isn't too hard to convert. My odometer conversion will require a little more thought.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 05:25PM
Total posts: 746
Last post: Jun 26, 2017
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
US
Quote:
Originally Posted by nkerr
is your sender mounted in the tank upside down?
Nope. Pretty sure it wouldn't have gone in upside down.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 12:44PM
Total posts: 628
Last post: Jun 19, 2017
Member since:Apr 26, 2011
Thanks Doug. I do plan on getting a bigger tank anyway/

 

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 12:41PM
Total posts: 13178
Last post: Jun 16, 2017
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
CA
Left hand tanks, 5.5 gal and 7.5 gal, should be had fairly cheaply......it's the righty that is pricey

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 09:46AM
 Edited:  Apr 19, 2017 09:47AM
Total posts: 8435
Last post: Jun 27, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US
If you have the bolt-on sending unit, it is not compatible with the later bimetallic fuel gauge.  The early sending unit has both the wrong resistance range and changes resistance in the wrong direction to be used with later fuel gauges.  You have a handful of choices.

  1. 1. Get an old fuel gauge.  However, finding one that will look OK with your magnolia gauges will be both expensive and probably never be a good color match.
  2. 2. Buy a later fuel tank complete with its bayonet ring mounted sending unit.  This will be easy but could be expensive.  However, a working bolt-on sending unit has value and will offset the cost of buying a new tank and sending unit.
  3. 3. Order the Gauge Wizard from Spiyda Design in the U.K.  Their Gauge Wizard will allow you to match different sending units and gauges that would otherwise be incompatible.  

Gauge Wizard Link:
https://www.spiyda.com/magento/index.php/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 04:36AM
 Edited:  Apr 19, 2017 04:37AM
Total posts: 628
Last post: Jun 19, 2017
Member since:Apr 26, 2011
Hi Doug! Mine is early. But my Speedo binnacle is brand new bought as a set (130mph) I don't know where he PO got it.

 

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 03:47AM
Total posts: 8435
Last post: Jun 27, 2017
Member since:Jun 5, 2000
US
The later senders can only go in the tank one way.

Does your fuel sending unit bolt to the tank (early design) or is it secured with a bayonet locking ring (later cars).  This is important for figuring out what's going on.

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 02:52AM
Total posts: 628
Last post: Jun 19, 2017
Member since:Apr 26, 2011
it must be. my last cooper was doing the same but opposite. i figured mehh ill just leave this one alone. but i'll check.

 

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 02:47AM
Total posts: 574
Last post: Jun 25, 2017
Member since:Sep 24, 2011
is your sender mounted in the tank upside down?

 Posted: Apr 19, 2017 02:05AM
Total posts: 628
Last post: Jun 19, 2017
Member since:Apr 26, 2011
Mine is In the middle when Full and goes towards full when about to be empty. I don't wanna mess it up so I just carry a wooden dipstick.

 

 Posted: Apr 18, 2017 08:54PM
 Edited:  Apr 19, 2017 08:44AM
Total posts: 746
Last post: Jun 26, 2017
Member since:Jul 15, 2008
US
Ever since installation my fuel gauge has read backwards. I thought it might just be a polarity issue so I tried switching the 2 wires on the sending unit around. No change. I know it doesn't make any sense, but I tried swapping the wires around on the gauge as well. Still no change. Any suggestions? I tell my passengers that "E" stands for "Extremely Full" and "F" is for "Fuel Needed." It's a British thing...

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports