Ideas???
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
May 8, 2017 08:12PM | tothefloor | Edited: May 8, 2017 09:46PM |
May 8, 2017 02:59PM | dklawson | |
May 8, 2017 12:07PM | minimans | Edited: May 8, 2017 12:08PM |
May 8, 2017 11:50AM | tothefloor | |
May 1, 2017 06:34AM | tothefloor | |
May 1, 2017 04:07AM | Dan Moffet | |
Apr 30, 2017 11:19PM | tothefloor | Edited: May 1, 2017 01:14AM |
Apr 30, 2017 11:14AM | Dan Moffet | |
Apr 30, 2017 11:12AM | minimans | |
Apr 30, 2017 11:06AM | tothefloor | |
Apr 30, 2017 07:03AM | Dan Moffet | |
Apr 30, 2017 06:05AM | dklawson | |
Apr 29, 2017 06:09PM | tothefloor | Edited: Apr 29, 2017 06:23PM |
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I don't have a cell phone yet so I have to rely on old digital cameras for the garage. They still work and I don't have to worry (too much) about getting grease on them.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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I remember having troubles like yours before I started upgrading my induction/exhaust system and got into carb trouble. Spark would disappear and make starting difficult or impossible. I finally discovered that the tiny flexible ground wire from the points mounting plate was not secure where it attached to the shell of the distributor.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Yes...I turn the key and the engine turns over without the cylinders firing. I tuned it last week or so finding TDC on the flywheel. It was marked at 7 TDC but a fried here suggested 4TDC. (I know this guy and his credentials on minis go way back). I tried it and it ran like it hasn't run for years. Saturday 1 & 2 were wet and all four were the same brown/blackish color. Compression was down 150, 145, 155, 130 but that shouldn't have stopped the car from starting. Brake servo hoses I just read now.
It does sound like ignition, I think I have been here before. At the top of the lobe I am open to feeler gauge .014 that is about all I can do until I get it out. Unfortunately I am still stuck it the garage but i'm thinking about pulling it out with my truck and about 15 feet up the small upgrade, (i'm facing in so I need to pull in reverse) and there is no way I can push it. I'm not crazy about that idea but that was way I can make sure the timing is right.
I tried starting fluid 2x but it doesn't start not even for a few seconds...so not fuel I think. I know starting fluid is not the way to go. Water in the carb has been mentioned twice...just putting it off. I must have been at the bottom of the tanks the other day as I put in 9.5 gallons so water in the carb could be an issue. But if water sinks in gas it should have come out first. But I have never dealt with that before on this car.
I don't know what the condenser does but if I have spark I think it still works. Low tension lead...maybe I could change that but I have spark at the plugs...but I believe that has been the culprit once before. Only thing I have found is my coil is warm/hot...but that could come from cranking it. I know I have one around but I just can't find it yet...but again I have spark at the plugs.
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Do you mean the engine just cranks over on the starter without the cylinders firing? Sorry, seems confusing. When most people say an engine "runs" it means it will operate on fuel at various rpms.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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You say you have spark and fuel. The symptoms therefore suggest to me you are getting too much fuel... the engine gradually floods. The engine was running fine, so don't mess up the mixture. After checking as Doug suggests, I'd suspect the fuel inlet needle valve/jet and the float.
There has been (maybe solved now) of some inlet needles sticking, but only when warmed up. Since you went for a hard drive, I suspect under-bonnet temperatures got high enough to warm the carb to the point the needle stuck open. Once the car has had a chance to cool down, the needle may have freed itself, allowing you another drive. I had this problem and even had the car stall out while idling in front of my garage and refusing to start. If it is this problem the solution is simple, especially if you have a HS type carb where you can remove the top of the fuel bowl. HIF type carbs need to be removed. Once you get the float out, check it for fuel content - it may be sinking. Next, if the float is OK, remove the needle and with a fine file or emery paper rub a few thou of an inch of each edge of the needle - it doesn't take much. That gives it more tolerance for expansion in the brass jet.
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In general, do not start by focusing on the carb. Start by going through all of the ignition system even if you just went through this to put the car back on the road.
Begin with the points. Clean and regap them. Make sure you put a thin layer of grease on the 4-lobe dizzy cam that opens and closes the points. If your points have a felt wick rubbing on the dizzy cam, make sure the wick is wet with engine oil. Do not run the dizzy without grease on the cam or a thoroughly wet felt wick. Failure to lube the dizzy cam will result in rapid wear of the heel block on the points which in turn closes the point gap until the engine will not start/run.
With the points set and dizzy cam lubed, check your static timing. 5 to 8 BTDC should be good enough to get the engine started. You can fine tune it dynamically once you get the engine started. If the engine does not start and run after setting the points and timing, turn your attention to the fuel system.
Before you consider carb adjustments, look for disconnected/cracked vacuum lines at the carb and disconnected/cracked brake servo hoses.
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So the next day I couldn't get the car started. I had fuel and I have spark at the plugs but it would just turn and turn. I think I flooded it. Because the next day it's just starts and runs and no problems then today I had it running drove it around and up the driveway but the wife wanted to do something so I had to pull it back in the garage now it doesn't start at all. Just runs and runs. Any ideas that don't involve taking off the carburetor???