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 Posted: May 15, 2017 10:16PM
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US
Ian is there a reducer to connect the crank case breather hose to the carb?  I have a HIF44 and mine is currently blocked off, I would love to just route it to that but that inlet is smaller in diameter than the hose that's coming from crank case.  Is there any pros running it back into the carb as opposed to it just going out into air??

 Posted: May 15, 2017 03:08AM
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GB

I had a centre exit exhaust for a while, and it stank the car out like following a diseasel truck.

Swapped the back box for a side exit (keeping the rest of the system) and the fumes went away.

There's something about the aerodynamics of a Mini that means a centre exit will always smell fumier than a side exit, some are better than others though, but finding out which is best for your car could get expensive !

 Posted: May 14, 2017 11:07PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAB60
Mur, I tried to route the crank case vent by adding a long hose directing it with a filter/breather at the end to the bottom of the right side wheel well.  I'm not sure what's the best way??  Suggestions?  I've seen some engine bays where people have the crank case vent, "T"ed into the carb then to somewhere else.  Maybe another breather filter?  Not sure.  
If your engine is healthy then by all means run the breather(s) through a PCV valve into the carb or manifold....  Some carbs have a breather inlet port so that you don't need the PCV.

A well used engine (with lots of blowby) will work best with a system such as you describe (with large diameter tubing .

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 14, 2017 09:22PM
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US
Mur, I tried to route the crank case vent by adding a long hose directing it with a filter/breather at the end to the bottom of the right side wheel well.  I'm not sure what's the best way??  Suggestions?  I've seen some engine bays where people have the crank case vent, "T"ed into the carb then to somewhere else.  Maybe another breather filter?  Not sure.  

 Posted: May 14, 2017 05:39PM
mur
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How is your crankcase vented?

 Posted: May 14, 2017 05:15PM
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US
So quick update!  Went to local muffler shop and found 3 leaks all around the joining points.  Had them fix that and all seemed ok.  Still fumes!!!  So investigated some further and found that engine was running overly rich.  Did some tuning to lean it out and the fumes disappeared significantly, day and night diff!  Anyways thanks all for the help.  Now more tuning so that I don't burn a hole in the piston! ??

 Posted: May 5, 2017 05:44AM
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CA
Yeah, probably best to visit the muffler shop. They should at least be able to locate the leaks. It seems you have the right sized system for your engine.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: May 4, 2017 12:52PM
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US
DKlawson yes the exhaust pipe sits about flush or a little bit behind the rear bumper.  I just smell a lot of gas/exhaust fumes everytime I drive it.


Dan Moffer, I have a header type LCB.  I might just take it to a muffler shop to get it done faster as I do not have access to a lift.  I wonder if they make a flex pipe for mini exhaust systems?  I have a RC40 large diameter piping for my 1380.

 Posted: May 4, 2017 04:45AM
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CA
Do you have a stock cast-iron intake/exhaust manifold or a separate steel tube exhaust header?

If you have a stock installation, the connection of the down-pipe is tricky to get clamped properly. The easiest way I know is to remove the exhaust system from the manifold back and separate the front section of the exhaust pipe. Check that the manifold is actually tight to the head. Then you position the front pipe carefully so its bell end rests evenly and tightly against the exit of the manifold. The joint has to be clean, smooth and have no distortion. Align the tail end of the pipe clear of the shifter, tunnel etc. Apply a small bit of up-pressure using a jack to hold the pipe in place. Install the clamp, gradually tightening the bolts evenly. Next, install the brace that goes from the turn of the down pipe forward to the transmission. That makes the downpipe move with the engine when it rocks to keep the top joint from moving. Reassemble the remainder of the exhaust system. The clamped section where they join together should be relatively clean - if they are black and sooty, it suggests a leak.

If you have a header, the process is similar - you start by making sure the flanges on each of the branches where they connect to the head are actually in a plane - they are sometimes slightly twisted or misaligned, leading to leaks. Install the header including any braces back to the transmission. Then install the remainder of the exhaust system.

To find leaks, put the car up on a lift or stands and start it. Using a listening tube like a stethoscope, check around each connection and joint for leaks. If that doesn't produce results, have an assistant partially block the tailpipe to increase back-pressure and search for leaks again. A car with a good, tight exhaust system can be stalled by blocking the tail-pipe.

Another issue to check is back-pressure - if you have a catalytic converter, is is blocked? Is your muffler(s) in good condition? Is the exhaust system sized properly for the engine? A too-small system is obvious but a too-large system (e.g. 1.75" on a stock 850 or 998) will also cause problems. A good system is tuned to the engine's needs.



.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: May 4, 2017 02:51AM
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US
Does the end of the exhaust hardware stop under the car or extend beyond the rear bumper?

Doug L.
 Posted: May 3, 2017 09:37PM
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US
Hey guys so i have always had this smelly/fumes inside the cabin problem.  A couple years ago i did a amateur rest of my mini where i had a shop put back in my engine and exhaust system.  Problem is since then I've had a heavy load of fumes that are present inside the cabin.  I do have a center exit and i know people have stated that these causes a lot of the fumes to come into the cabin, BUT my problem is i can even smell the heavy fumes when its idling when i start it up in the garage before taking it out.  Could this be an exhaust leak toward the front of the car where the header pipe and exhaust meet?  Im wondering if i could just tighten down the exhaust clamp that connects to the header down pipe.......How about just going to an muffler shop and have them redo a section of the exhaust piping that might be susceptible to the leak??  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!  



Regards


Rick

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