Freeze plug Problems...
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jun 25, 2017 03:15PM | nkerr | |
Jun 25, 2017 08:09AM | jedduh01 | |
Jun 24, 2017 05:31PM | DRMINI | |
Jun 24, 2017 11:38AM | thewerewolf | |
Jun 23, 2017 05:56AM | Cheleker | |
Jun 23, 2017 03:39AM | CooperTune | |
Jun 22, 2017 07:15PM | Cheleker | |
Jun 22, 2017 05:40PM | malsal | |
Jun 22, 2017 01:58PM | nkerr | Edited: Jun 22, 2017 02:11PM |
Jun 22, 2017 11:55AM | dklawson | Edited: Jun 22, 2017 01:46PM |
Jun 22, 2017 10:16AM | minimans | |
Jun 22, 2017 06:19AM | jedduh01 | |
Jun 22, 2017 01:42AM | Alex | |
Jun 21, 2017 06:25PM | thewerewolf | |
Jun 21, 2017 06:17PM | jedduh01 | |
Jun 21, 2017 05:04PM | dklawson | |
Jun 21, 2017 04:29PM | minimans | |
Jun 21, 2017 04:10PM | jedduh01 |
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Not only did the leak stop, also, the website is now working normally now too (and am able to post images again).
"I love it when a plan comes together" - Hannibal (A Team)
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Followup Fix
Sanded bores. Sanded edges of new plugs to give a bit more surface grip
JB Weld used... just personally figured needed SOME sealer. although Indianhead. or other gasket makers usually work too,
Drove them in a BIT farther than previously inside the bore just a touch further.
Car just drove completely home.
Happy - No Leaks now after multiple heat cycles so far!
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Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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I'd think replacing freeze plugs begins with removing them without damage to the hole. I have a tool I made just for flipping cup type out. Proper prep of the hole is important. I remove the old plugs carefully, clean the bores with a electric drill with a small wire brush. With a sharp loc back knife or three sided bearing scraper I work the walls of the bores removing any rust, old sealer. With a small rat tail file I debur the outer edge of the bore. I always use Indian Head sealer and apply to the bore pressing the plugs in with another tool I made for the job. I drive mine down flush with the chamfer. I also send my blocks out for machine work and cleaning before installing the freeze/core plugs. They clean better without the plugs ( not that the current cleaning agent does a good job ) and it comes back ready for me to start cleaning and assembly. I have been replacing A series freeze plugs since the mid 60s and have yet to have one weep. How many people here know that the early 850's front 5 head studs are drilled and tapped into the water jacket just like a SB Chevy. I seal those threads to avoid a weep up the studs. Steve (CTR)
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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also, I cannot load photos now
Using Safari.
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SIDEBAR:
Is anyone else getting the message:
Back on topic:
I have a friend who experienced core plug failure on his TR6 cylinder head. Those plugs are on the BACK of the head so the only way to fix it is to pull the head. You have to buy both a new plug AND a new head gasket.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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It's not uncommon to have a small weep when first installed, but it usually goes away quite quickly.
I sand the edges of the plug through the plating to get to clean metal, sand the core plug hole in the block, and tap them home dry. It sometimes takes a while for the edges to rust together and form an effective seal, but I've only had a problem once. We'd filled the engine with antifreeze from new and the anti-corrosion properties of the glycol prevented the plug from sealing. Unfortunately the weep was underneath the paint and causing it to bubble, so a small dose (tiny) of radseal cured it.
Learning point - don't use antifreeze on a new engine !
Dry Will sand up edges of both plug and block... clean + considering the dry install + wait to rust shut ... seems counter intuititive but makes sense.
Now ordered a 10 Pack of new plugs (thanks amazon) will have plenty of attempts upcoming.
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It's not uncommon to have a small weep when first installed, but it usually goes away quite quickly.
I sand the edges of the plug through the plating to get to clean metal, sand the core plug hole in the block, and tap them home dry. It sometimes takes a while for the edges to rust together and form an effective seal, but I've only had a problem once. We'd filled the engine with antifreeze from new and the anti-corrosion properties of the glycol prevented the plug from sealing. Unfortunately the weep was underneath the paint and causing it to bubble, so a small dose (tiny) of radseal cured it.
Learning point - don't use antifreeze on a new engine !
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FIrst set came out from machine shop- had 1 5.8 cast into the steel plug. OK seems correct , Second set came from mini supplier. and sold as genuine correct plugs for 1275 same fit ... They go in tight.,
I have already knocked 3 back out again... seeing it dribble its not going to seal itself...
Searching now for a local suppler with 1 5/8ths in stock... locally to do it again.
WIll sand make sure rounds are really clean..and lightly sanded. . the JB Weld might actually be the next glue.
just annoying,.
WHen yall drive them in... what surface to you impact on"? Im using a Large socket INSIDE the cup,
WOuld you ever drive on the cup edge- using a socket or such Larger to drive it in?
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When I replace them I sand the holes in the block to remove all debris and rust. Once clean I put a smear of RTV on the OD of the plug and inside of the hole. Once the plugs are tapped into place I allow them overnight for the RTV to cure before putting coolant in the block. I have not resorted to this but I have acquaintances who have used JB Weld instead of RTV.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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Fully stripped. prepped bored cleaned done . Currently runs really well just have a water holding issue. Looking for ideas ..
Driving normally = enigne comes up to temp= stays around the N. little over.. .. and nothing crazy. Park the car. of course Heat soak happens and the pressurized coolant system has good pressure. of a "closed' system,
first 2 Freeze plugs showed signs of weeping... Removed= re installed 2 new. Upon next test drive. the other 2 are now weeping and one even created a leaking stream.
One more of the first is back to leaking again.
Upon the second replacenet set I used. Permatex 1 form a gasket to try to help sealing. Used a Large socket inside the cup of the plug and drove them home. Let sit for 24 hours before re filling with water... Still Pressure builds and they leak.
Temps have been confirmed by infared gun.. sitting engine running 180 on the thermostat.. 180 on the radiator
200 on the head by the thermo. 200 back of the head.. and all water pipes are up to temp.. telling me there is Water flow. I do not believe this is an Overheat situation., just a 'fail to seal well Freeze plug problem.
ANy tips . tricks or other ideas for a good freeze plug install?