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 Posted: Jun 25, 2017 03:15PM
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Awesome news!

Not only did the leak stop, also, the website is now working normally now too (and am able to post images again).

"I love it when a plan comes together"  - Hannibal (A Team)

 Posted: Jun 25, 2017 08:09AM
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US

Followup Fix
 
Sanded bores. Sanded edges of new plugs to give a bit more surface grip

JB Weld used... just personally figured needed SOME sealer.  although Indianhead. or other gasket makers usually work too,
 Drove them in a BIT farther than previously  inside the bore just a touch further.

Car just drove completely home.
Happy - No  Leaks now after multiple heat cycles so far! 


 Posted: Jun 24, 2017 05:31PM
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I used to knock the 1275 ones in with a big socket, but I've since made a shouldered punch to drive them on the rim. Not had any leaks since I did this. I sand the holes clean, then use a smear of Loctite 515 before fitting.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2017 11:38AM
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CTR.. steve.. I just go to Lowes and get long copper rod. in correct  size and cut it my self..  later bc

 Posted: Jun 23, 2017 05:56AM
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US
Follow up test. Message gone.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2017 03:39AM
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US
Perhaps I should not say so but I'd bet I have installed more freeze plugs than anyone here. For the last 17 years I have used brass freeze plugs only. I was buying them 30 ( three boxes of 10 ) at a time. At $3 each with shipping, almost a $100 at a pop. I recently placed an order only to find Dorman has discontinued that size. I bought a bag of 50 from MSC recently. They are not brass but will have to do for now.

I'd think replacing freeze plugs begins with removing them without damage to the hole. I have a tool I made just for flipping cup type out. Proper prep of the hole is important. I remove the old plugs carefully, clean the bores with a electric drill with a small wire brush. With a sharp loc back knife or three sided bearing scraper I work the walls of the bores removing any rust, old sealer. With a small rat tail file I debur the outer edge of the bore. I always use Indian Head sealer and apply to the bore pressing the plugs in with another tool I made for the job. I drive mine down flush with the chamfer. I also send my blocks out for machine work and cleaning before installing the freeze/core plugs. They clean better without the plugs ( not that the current cleaning agent does a good job ) and it comes back ready for me to start cleaning and assembly. I have been replacing A series freeze plugs since the mid 60s and have yet to have one weep. How many people here know that the early 850's front 5 head studs are drilled and tapped into the water jacket just like a SB Chevy. I seal those threads to avoid a weep up the studs. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 07:15PM
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US
Test. Got the same message. One has to kill it to keep the first line of the posting from disappearing behind the warning.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 05:40PM
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I get it too using chrome as well.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 01:58PM
 Edited:  Jun 22, 2017 02:11PM
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yes, I get that "failed to load" error message too

also, I cannot load photos now


Using Safari.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 11:55AM
 Edited:  Jun 22, 2017 01:46PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by minimans
At least on a mini they are up front and centre! I had one pop out on an MGA at the rear of the block what a bollock ache that was!


SIDEBAR:
Is anyone else getting the message:  
"Failed to load content css: //cdn.tinymce.com/Header_main.css"  whenever you try to reply to a thread?  It happens to me all the time now.  I am using Chrome, not IE.  Is it a problem for IE users also?

Back on topic:
I have a friend who experienced core plug failure on his TR6 cylinder head.  Those plugs are on the BACK of the head so the only way to fix it is to pull the head.  You have to buy both a new plug AND a new head gasket. 

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 10:16AM
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At least on a mini they are up front and centre! I had one pop out on an MGA at the rear of the block what a bollock ache that was!

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 06:19AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

It's not uncommon to have a small weep when first installed, but it usually goes away quite quickly.

I sand the edges of the plug through the plating to get to clean metal, sand the core plug hole in the block, and tap them home dry.  It sometimes takes a while for the edges to rust together and form an effective seal, but I've only had a problem once.  We'd filled the engine with antifreeze from new and the anti-corrosion properties of the glycol prevented the plug from sealing.  Unfortunately the weep was underneath the paint and causing it to bubble, so a small dose (tiny) of radseal cured it.
Learning point - don't use antifreeze on a new engine !

Thanks Alex.. taking all these points home...
  
Dry Will sand up edges of both plug and block...  clean + considering the dry install + wait to rust shut ... seems counter intuititive but makes sense.

 Now ordered a 10 Pack of new plugs (thanks amazon)  will have plenty of attempts upcoming.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2017 01:42AM
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GB

It's not uncommon to have a small weep when first installed, but it usually goes away quite quickly.

I sand the edges of the plug through the plating to get to clean metal, sand the core plug hole in the block, and tap them home dry.  It sometimes takes a while for the edges to rust together and form an effective seal, but I've only had a problem once.  We'd filled the engine with antifreeze from new and the anti-corrosion properties of the glycol prevented the plug from sealing.  Unfortunately the weep was underneath the paint and causing it to bubble, so a small dose (tiny) of radseal cured it.
Learning point - don't use antifreeze on a new engine !

 Posted: Jun 21, 2017 06:25PM
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jedduh01..  might be stupic question. ?? but you are using bit oversided  COPPER freeze plugs arent you?? later b c

 Posted: Jun 21, 2017 06:17PM
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Ive completely resorted to doing them again.

FIrst set came out from machine shop- had 1 5.8 cast into the steel plug. OK seems correct , Second set came from mini supplier. and sold as genuine correct plugs for 1275  same fit ... They go in tight.,

I have already knocked 3 back out again... seeing it dribble its not going to seal itself...
 
Searching now for a local suppler with 1 5/8ths in stock... locally  to do it again.

WIll sand  make sure rounds are really clean..and lightly sanded. . the JB Weld might actually be the next glue. 
just annoying,. 

WHen yall drive them in... what surface to you impact on"?  Im using a Large socket INSIDE the cup,
 WOuld you ever drive on the cup edge- using a socket or such Larger to drive it in?

 Posted: Jun 21, 2017 05:04PM
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Though you don't want to hear this, consider replacing them again.

When I replace them I sand the holes in the block to remove all debris and rust.  Once clean I put a smear of RTV on the OD of the plug and inside of the hole.  Once the plugs are tapped into place I allow them overnight for the RTV to cure before putting coolant in the block.  I have not resorted to this but I have acquaintances who have used JB Weld instead of RTV.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 21, 2017 04:29PM
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don't usually have problems with mini's as they use cup type freeze plugs just make sure all is clean and burr free I use WellSeal but thats the same as Permatex aviation sealant. Are you using brass or steel plugs? and are they the proper size? ie Standard size not Metric? I use steel plugs personally, I don't worry about them rusting out it would take longer than the engine would last!

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Jun 21, 2017 04:10PM
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Working with a freshly rebuilt  1275 A series engine.
  Fully stripped. prepped bored cleaned done . Currently runs really well just have a  water holding issue. Looking for ideas ..

Driving normally = enigne comes up to temp= stays around the N. little over.. .. and nothing crazy.   Park the car. of course Heat soak happens and the pressurized coolant system  has good pressure. of a "closed' system,

first 2 Freeze plugs showed signs of weeping...  Removed= re installed 2 new. Upon  next test drive.  the other 2 are now weeping  and one even created a leaking stream.

 One more of the first is back to leaking again.

Upon the second replacenet set I used. Permatex 1  form a gasket to try to help sealing. Used a Large socket inside the cup of the plug and drove them home. Let sit for 24 hours before re filling with water... Still  Pressure builds and they leak.

Temps have been confirmed by infared gun..  sitting  engine running 180 on the thermostat.. 180 on the radiator
 200 on the head by the thermo.  200 back of the head..  and all water pipes are up to temp.. telling me there is Water flow. I do not believe this is an Overheat situation., just a 'fail to seal well Freeze plug problem.

ANy tips . tricks or other ideas for a good freeze plug install?