I second Kimberlyruiz on polarizing the generator.

After a year-long engine build I neglected to "re-polarize" the generator and it did not charge until polarized.

Kirk

Have you changed the lamp for an LED ?

The alternator needs to have a small current pull through that lamp to work, and an LED doesn't draw enough.

Hello,

Polarizing the generator might help, but it's essential to ensure the correct procedure is followed to avoid damaging the electrical system. To polarize the new generator, you would typically need to momentarily connect the battery's positive terminal to the generator's armature (A) terminal while the engine is not running. There might be a chance of fixing the Pertronix unit, but it's difficult to determine without proper diagnosis and testing. The 1275 engine with twin 1 1/4 SU carburetors, stock manifold, and 2-box exhaust seems to have some performance modifications while retaining the swinging carb needles and paper air filters. 

1963 Morris Traveller, 1275, twin 1.25 SU. still positive ground After working on this for 6 years without actually running engine, I finally got it all buttoned up and fired it up. Set valves, played with newly rebuilt carbs and timing. Got it running OK but generator light would not go out. After a couple startups in failed to fire at all. Wouldn't even try. Pulled the distributor with Pertronix and replaced with older one I had with points already set up. Fired right up and ran OK again, but generator light will still not go out. Since it sat so long, I am guessing I fried the electronic unit. Questions? 1. Can I polorize that generator and use it? 2. Since I have a new generator, what would be the BEST procedure to use to polorize and use it? 3. Could there be any hope for that Pertronix unit? Unrelated 4. Box stock 1275 out of something(no engine tag) with twin 1 1/4 SU, stock mani and 2 box exhaust. Paper 1 1/2 " paper filters. swinging carb needles. ANY NEEDLE SUGGESTIONS AS START POINT?