Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Oct 1, 2016 07:05AM | malsal | |
| Sep 30, 2016 11:27AM | Morninglightmountain | |
| Sep 30, 2016 07:57AM | specialist | Edited: Sep 30, 2016 07:57AM |
| Sep 30, 2016 07:37AM | 1963SV2 | |
| Sep 30, 2016 12:22AM | Alex | |
| Sep 29, 2016 07:34PM | malsal | |
| Sep 29, 2016 03:19PM | jeg | |
| Sep 29, 2016 03:09PM | Morninglightmountain | |
| Sep 29, 2016 03:02PM | jeg | |
| Sep 29, 2016 02:34PM | Morninglightmountain | |
| Sep 29, 2016 02:06PM | malsal | Edited: Sep 29, 2016 07:24PM |
| Sep 29, 2016 02:05PM | Morninglightmountain | |
| Sep 29, 2016 02:02PM | dklawson | |
| Sep 29, 2016 01:57PM | jeg | |
| Sep 29, 2016 01:27PM | Dan Moffet | |
| Sep 29, 2016 12:38PM | Morninglightmountain | |
| Sep 29, 2016 12:24PM | malsal | |
| Sep 29, 2016 12:08PM | dklawson | |
| Sep 29, 2016 12:02PM | specialist | Edited: Sep 29, 2016 12:48PM |
| Sep 29, 2016 11:41AM | Morninglightmountain |
Posted:
Oct 1, 2016
07:05AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
thanks for all the tips. I'll try em all. pump under the hood gas can in the front seat next week.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I'll try another coil. Seems like a while back I tried a non-flamethrower coil (one that didn't come with the petronix dizzy) and it poured white smoke out the tail pipe. I may be remembering wrong.
speaking of tailpipe- It seems to have plenty of velocity coming out of it, but i have nothing to compare it to.
thanks again fellas.
speaking of tailpipe- It seems to have plenty of velocity coming out of it, but i have nothing to compare it to.
thanks again fellas.
Edited:
Sep 30, 2016
07:57AM
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..and if the fuel search and the coil search fails, time to focus on the exhaust.,i know a racoon can't get in there but it can get clogged with carbon,soothe and what not... it may accomodate 3k rmp but past 3k,at high rpm, it might be suffocating. on the stock exhaust, this is what you'll see when you look inside the pipe,(from the back opening) the hole is round but there are four plates with little holes that partially blocks the exhaust flow, i guess they are there for backlow purposes. these might get clogged, like mine. i had to bang it with a long rod to unclogg the deep seated carbon, then my car ran good after i removed the clog. the four plates were still there, i just removed the carbon build up.
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If the fuel search doesn't reveal any anomalies I would look at the coil.
A dying/defective coil will also produce these symptoms....BTDT.. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good
Cheers, Ian
A dying/defective coil will also produce these symptoms....BTDT.. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good
Cheers, Ian
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Have you checked the internal fuel filter inside the carb ?
Not a lot of folks know that there is a very fine mesh filter nestling inside underneath the needle assembly ?
You'll need to take the carb off, remove the bottom of the carb, extract the float and float valve and then unscrew the brass nut which is the float valve seat. Under all that is the filter. Clean it and reassemble, paying close attention to setting the float level correctly.
Gertie retired from her first race when it got clogged with crap from who-knows-where. (We woz nobbled).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
thanks for all the tips. I'll try em all. pump under the hood gas can in the front seat next week.
.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Naw, there's no need for RTV, in fact, I only put it there that day because I had removed and reinstalled the carb 3 or 4 times and didn't feel like wasting any gaskets.
The RTV on the manifold plug has been there for years, also on my older MSC 'square-covered' coolant tube intake manifold simply because I don't trust the small set screws that the manifolds come with and I don't like to tighten the blanking plug very much - lightly snug with a bit o'RTV has worked for me for years.
The RTV on the manifold plug has been there for years, also on my older MSC 'square-covered' coolant tube intake manifold simply because I don't trust the small set screws that the manifolds come with and I don't like to tighten the blanking plug very much - lightly snug with a bit o'RTV has worked for me for years.
The peasants are revolting... 
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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ya. it could use a little cleanup. but Jeg. I did notice you have RTV on your gaskets. I don't. is that something i should look into. I sprayed a little chemtool around that area while the engine was running at idle and the idle did not increase BTW.
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Image Gallery
The choke cable clip: p/n CZK 6491
The throttle cable: SSB10126 (LHD) or SBB10099 (RHD)
Piston damper: LZX2085 for HIF44, allows the piston to drop slightly quicker than the current LZX1511 HIF38 damper
A rather strange assortment of springs...
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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Image Gallery
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The best way to check it would be to run it until it splutters then switch it off and remove the fuel bowl base, as you have a HIF that is difficult if not impossible to do on the side of the road over a hot exhaust if you had a HS4 it would be easily done. I have seen mechanics blow off the fuel sock in the tank with air pressure and fit a remote fuel filter, you have to just blow it out/off with no restrictions in the line like fuel filters or fuel pumps and have someone monitoring the pressure from the fuel neck.
Failing that as it is a one time thing you could attach a long piece of fuel hose to the tank outlet and blow down it with mouth pressure to see how restrictive the sock filter is.
Another thing you could do is gravity feed the carb with a small amount of fuel to eliminate the tank and lines altogether.
Just thinking what you can do to eliminate all possibilities before throwing money at a carb re build.
These are things i have done and seen done many moons ago in my early years working on cars.
Failing that as it is a one time thing you could attach a long piece of fuel hose to the tank outlet and blow down it with mouth pressure to see how restrictive the sock filter is.
Another thing you could do is gravity feed the carb with a small amount of fuel to eliminate the tank and lines altogether.
Just thinking what you can do to eliminate all possibilities before throwing money at a carb re build.
These are things i have done and seen done many moons ago in my early years working on cars.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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ya. got it. makes sense. thanks. my brain is fried.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
at 10gph am I on the edge? should I get a higher capacity?
Doug L.
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If I remember correctly, Vizard mentioned that the A-series needs a fuel pump flow capacity of 8HP/Gallon/Hour (I'm too lazy at the moment to dig out the TASE bible and check), so a 75HP engine would need a pump capable of supplying 9½ gallons per hour. I doubt that your engine is actually working to produce 75HP when cruising at 60mph, more likely only 35 or 40HP.
If your 1275 is putting out more than 80 hp (and actually using all of them), then you'd want a higher flow fuel pump, but retain the 2½ - 3 psi pressure limit - use a quality regulator. The Facet pumps are good value for money, my current pump was installed in March 2004, still working fine. It replaced a smaller version when I increased the horsepower, but it's also working fine and sitting in a box.
Kindly post a picture of your carb's hose connections - no need to start sending the carb to Joe for rebuilding unless it's really knackered.
If your 1275 is putting out more than 80 hp (and actually using all of them), then you'd want a higher flow fuel pump, but retain the 2½ - 3 psi pressure limit - use a quality regulator. The Facet pumps are good value for money, my current pump was installed in March 2004, still working fine. It replaced a smaller version when I increased the horsepower, but it's also working fine and sitting in a box.
Kindly post a picture of your carb's hose connections - no need to start sending the carb to Joe for rebuilding unless it's really knackered.
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
10 GPH will be fine for a street engine.
The most common small British car electric fuel pump would have been the AUF200 series. According to Dave Dubois' information (link below) that series of pumps is rated for 8.4 GPH (U.S.)
//userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Fuel_Pumps/Fuel_pump_specs.pdf
The most common small British car electric fuel pump would have been the AUF200 series. According to Dave Dubois' information (link below) that series of pumps is rated for 8.4 GPH (U.S.)
//userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Fuel_Pumps/Fuel_pump_specs.pdf
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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my engine is a 1275 and I'm not sure what else has been done to it. It has headers and originally came with a 10deg dizzy.
at 10gph am I on the edge? should I get a higher capacity?
also, I've checked the valves, but will check them again.
The tank looks pretty good and the fact that the problem is so precise I feel like i'm just missing something right in front of me.
I'll look into having the hiff44 redone. I'm guessing Joe Curto will notice if something is glaringly wrong with it that i'm just not seeing.
thanks again guys.
at 10gph am I on the edge? should I get a higher capacity?
also, I've checked the valves, but will check them again.
The tank looks pretty good and the fact that the problem is so precise I feel like i'm just missing something right in front of me.
I'll look into having the hiff44 redone. I'm guessing Joe Curto will notice if something is glaringly wrong with it that i'm just not seeing.
thanks again guys.
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Have you looked inside the gas tank, if not take a peek inside with a good flashlight? Over the years i have removed several items from tanks that restricted the flow ranging from Wendys napkins to plastic Walmart bags.
The in tank filter could be blocked as well.
You can install a side draft Webber on a swan neck manifold without cutting the bulkhead and you can also install a downdraft Webber without any cutting. According to most of the Mini books written Webbers only really out perform an SU in racing applications and the side drafts take a lot of setting up. FWIW i would stick with an SU they are way simpler. Send yours to Joe Curto in NY tell him your engine spec and he will rebuild it and install the best needle for your spec and it will be 100%.
The in tank filter could be blocked as well.
You can install a side draft Webber on a swan neck manifold without cutting the bulkhead and you can also install a downdraft Webber without any cutting. According to most of the Mini books written Webbers only really out perform an SU in racing applications and the side drafts take a lot of setting up. FWIW i would stick with an SU they are way simpler. Send yours to Joe Curto in NY tell him your engine spec and he will rebuild it and install the best needle for your spec and it will be 100%.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023 Member since:Jun 5, 2000
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10 GPH will be fine for a street engine.
The most common small British car electric fuel pump would have been the AUF200 series. According to Dave Dubois' information (link below) that series of pumps is rated for 8.4 GPH (U.S.)
//userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Fuel_Pumps/Fuel_pump_specs.pdf
The most common small British car electric fuel pump would have been the AUF200 series. According to Dave Dubois' information (link below) that series of pumps is rated for 8.4 GPH (U.S.)
//userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Fuel_Pumps/Fuel_pump_specs.pdf
Doug L.
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at 55-70mph, does the car sputter? and do you smell fumes inside cabin at this speed? you said that you barely step on the gas at 55 up.? do you have a timing gun? clamp it one by one(one after the other) on all four plug wires then rev it to about 3k , direct the gun to the floor, see if the strobe is continously blinking(normal) or in intermettent fashion(bad) and mark at which plug wire does it do this.
i feel for you buddy, you have been suffering for a year now, we'll get to all avenues to get to the bottom of this problem.
The Weber dcoe is best for track days, but on bumper to bumper city driving, the HIF 38 or 44 is ideal.
get the proper needle suited to your carb and you'll see the paradise i tellya !
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Really? I though these were supposed to but out about 10 gallons/hour?
