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 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 06:20AM
Total posts: 6961
Last post: Mar 27, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenDean
Thanks everyone! To answer some questions asked above. 

I don't have a manual, actually everything I've ever needed has been been found on this site or the internet. 

Gas in the tank is last years gas probably mid summer gas, I know its getting old but should still run on it. Yes I added a new fuel filter when I installed the rebuilt carb. It's clear and I see no rust or dirt in the filter. 




Thank you guys!

Modern gasolene lasts about 3 months without stabilizer. Drain the tank, put in fresh and use the old gas in a modern car with a computer that will compensate for the tired fuel.

Get a manual.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 06:17AM
Total posts: 6961
Last post: Mar 27, 2017
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
There were a few white plastic ones that were manufactured not to spec and will bind on the sides of the brass seat. If you have one of them and it is sticking just lightly sand the 3 or 4 sides with some fine sand paper or buy the rubber tipped brass viton one.
Ditto some of the all-metal ones. Rub off the sharp edges - 8 on the metal ones that have a "+" cross-section.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 23, 2017 06:02AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Thanks everyone! To answer some questions asked above. 

I don't have a manual, actually everything I've ever needed has been been found on this site or the internet. 

Gas in the tank is last years gas probably mid summer gas, I know its getting old but should still run on it. Yes I added a new fuel filter when I installed the rebuilt carb. It's clear and I see no rust or dirt in the filter. 

The carb piston moves up and down and I added the correct amount and correct type of oil in it when I installed it last year. 

I didn't have time to pull the lid off the fuel bowl last night will try again tonight. As well as possibly trying to get alternative method of delivering fuel to the carb. 

Thank you guys!

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 09:43PM
mur
Total posts: 5553
Last post: Mar 25, 2017
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
Starting fluid is not a good idea, however, it did confirm that the issue is fuel delivery and since it still turns over without broken connecting rods sticking out of the block I will accept that in this instance it has some value.

Fuel needs to get into the float bowl and then it needs to travel from the float bowl into the jet. The needle in the dashpot piston sticks down into the jet. The piston needs to move up and down, it needs to have oil in the dampener, and the jet needs to move down a small amount when the choke is pulled all the way out. 

Beyond that, the fuel needs to still be combustible, which, considering where you are, can be an issue.

That is it really. You can check these things yourself in just a few minutes. 

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 09:07PM
Total posts: 6216
Last post: Mar 28, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
do you have 4 year old gas in the tank?


Simple stuff first.  Do you have an inline fuel filter before the carb?  You can buy these for a few $$ at any autoparts store. I suggest the 
clear ones. Cut the line and 2 hose clamps.


If you're pushing grit/rust into the carb from a rusted fuel tank, it can foul the needle in the float bowl.  It's why I asked if you had a manual. You can see exactly what and where to disassemble and clean. 


Since it fires right up, it's not your timing. Don't touch it until you get the car to run regularly. 


Since it cranks fast, it's not your battery, starter, or ground straps.  Leave them alone.

If you clean the float bowl and needle, providing you have that set up., and it still stalls, you might want to try running the engine on a supplementary fuel supply.  Use a rubber hose and a small plastic squeeze bottle like a mustard bottle. Put fresh gas in the clean bottle and turn it sideways. Have some one fire up the car, you can tip  or squeeze the bottle to supply fuel.   If it runs, it might be time to have the fuel tank boiled out at a radiator shop. Before you re-install it, blow compressed air from the front to the rear to clear the line of crud.


Let's see what happens next.

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 06:34PM
Total posts: 21
Last post: Feb 22, 2017
Member since:Jun 20, 2015
Hey Dean, I'll pass this message to some locals. There are three classic owners down in Arnold, mo and I just meet someone today that's in Waterloo. PM your email.
-JR

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 05:48PM
Total posts: 6216
Last post: Mar 28, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
do you have a shop manual?  Haynes?

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 03:01PM
Total posts: 6927
Last post: Mar 28, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
There were a few white plastic ones that were manufactured not to spec and will bind on the sides of the brass seat. If you have one of them and it is sticking just lightly sand the 3 or 4 sides with some fine sand paper or buy the rubber tipped brass viton one.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 02:08PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Thanks I will try and check tonight. Not sure what needle valve is in it, what ever they use when Mini Mania rebuilds them I guess. 

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 01:50PM
Total posts: 6927
Last post: Mar 28, 2017
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Presuming you have a HS4 carb next time it will not start remove the float chamber lid and see if it has fuel there. If not the needle valve is sticking preventing the float bowl from filling up. The better needle valves are the viton rubber tipped ones.

If in doubt, flat out . Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

 Posted: Feb 22, 2017 01:46PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 6, 2017
Member since:Apr 16, 2013
Hi all had my 74 mini 998 for about four years and my family and I love driving it when we can. Its seems hard to start ever since I've had it. So I've done some up grades hoping to improve it including a rebuild carb from mini mania last year, new Petronix ignition module, new battery. Now it wont start at all. I have spark, fires right up for a few seconds with starting fluid. Presumably I have fuel if I pull the fuel hose off the carb it will push gas in a jar. The "plunger" in the SU (HS4 if I remember correctly) carb seats correctly. Cranks over plenty quickly. The only thing I could think of would be timing might be off...but it fires just fine with starting fluid...

Any suggestions would be appreciated. If I cant get it I'd really wouldn't mind paying to having someone come take a look at it if someone local is familiar with it. I have a nice well lit garage and most any tool you would need.

I see there is two shops listed Euro Car and Auto Europe. Not sure if they work on Classic minis or not and if they do does anyone have a recommendation on either of them or any others. 

I'm located 20 min north east of St.Louis, in East Alton IL. 

Thanks in advance!
Dean 

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